ST1300 - Headlights don't turn off with the key off.

Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
80
Location
Albany, Ohio
Bike
2006 ST1300
Hi All. Last fall I had an incident where, after a high speed run in hot weather, I turned off the bike and the headlights stayed on. I had to disconnect the battery to get them to go off. I'm just getting around to fixing it. I have disconnected all of my accessory wiring to make sure it wasn't the problem. Where/at what should I look? Can a relay fail open? Should I inspect for wiring harness damage? .Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
I would start with the relay.
Does the instrument cluster also stay on? If yes I would check the ignition switch.

It will be easier to debug with pulling the fuse vs removing the battery leads ;)
 
Did the lights stay off or come back on when re-connecting the battery?

Was it headlights only? No gauge, tail, or marker lights?

Was it both left and right? Both high ad low beams?
 
Thanks for the trouble shooting tips and thread links. I was able to ride it home and I believe the instrument cluster was working. I'm not sure of the other items. I'll put it back together enough this weekend to test all of the possibilities mentioned.
 
Hi All. Last fall I had an incident where, after a high speed run in hot weather, I turned off the bike and the headlights stayed on. I had to disconnect the battery to get them to go off. I'm just getting around to fixing it. I have disconnected all of my accessory wiring to make sure it wasn't the problem. Where/at what should I look? Can a relay fail open? Should I inspect for wiring harness damage?


Yes. - relays can remain switched on.

It can happen if the mechanism breaks, but more likely if too much current has been passed through them eg attempting to switch 40 Amps with a relay designed only for 20Amps.

The contacts will spark when switched on, and they can weld themselves together.

Once welded together they will likely remain welded, Although a sharp tap may sometimes break them apart, the surface of the relay contacts wii be ruined, and they will soon weld themselves together again or fail to work altogether.

The right hand beam has a different power source from the left. I don't have the wiring diagram to hand, but it us turned on by ignition and I don't think it passes through a relay. But I may be wrong - but regardless of that, answers to the following questions would be useful.

Which model bike do you have - ABS or STD ?
Do you have a switch to turn lights on and off ? Our Uk 06 models do not. Lights come on with ignition.
If you have a switch, what happens if ignition is off and the light switch is off?

The right hand beam is powered from fuse E (Abs) and Fuse D (Std) Fwd fuse box. This triggers one of two relays for the left beam, depending on the hi/lo beam switch. What happens if that fuse is pulled?


......

If a welded relay turns out to be the cause of the problem, then it would be prudent to check where power is being drawn from in your accessories. There are not many places on the ST1300 where there is sufficient capacity in the wiring, fuses and relays to add on ( say ) an extra set of driving lights, without providing a new fused, relayed supply from the battery.
 
The right hand beam has a different power source from the left.

The right hand beam is powered from fuse E (Abs) and Fuse D (Std) Fwd fuse box. This triggers one of two relays for the left beam, depending on the hi/lo beam switch. What happens if that fuse is pulled?
Only on non-US STs.
 
I have fixed two ST1300’s that had this same problem. Both bikes were fixed by adding an additional ground in the 24 pin connector in the left fairing. While you’re fixing ground problems, you might want to do the same ground wire addition to the yellow multi-wire, grounding connector, located behind the right headlight.

John
 
I have fixed two ST1300’s that had this same problem. Both bikes were fixed by adding an additional ground in the 24 pin connector in the left fairing. While you’re fixing ground problems, you might want to do the same ground wire addition to the yellow multi-wire, grounding connector, located behind the right headlight.

John
Besides the 21 pin connector area, and the yellow box behind the right mirror area, honda also hid a 3rd yellow box inside the wire harness in the area that crosses the frame near the seat. However, I have only found this one melted/damaged once.
I would check the back of the headlight bulbs for melted wires before you start ripping stuff apart.
 
Only on non-US STs.

Thanks Larry. Are you sure about that ? If you have another source that shows this information differently, please post it. If I am wrong, then I may need to make some corrections.

You contributed to the thread linked below - one of the things you pointed out was the fact that only the non-US bikes have the flash to pass button. Not that the rest of it was wired differently.

I checked this out quite carefully when I wrote this article . I used the UK honda schematic and the USA Honda schematic and the online coloured versions. In the process I discovered an error in the Honda wiring schematic for the headlamp bulbs, the fact that USA bikes have on on/off switch for lights, and that USA bikes do not have the passing switch. However, the wiring arrangement for the fuses, right lamp relays and left lamps seem to be consistent between UK and USA diagrams and from what other members contributed to the discussions after the the above post.
 
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...the fact that only the non-US bikes have the flash to pass button.t between UK and USA diagrams and from what other contributed to the discussions after the the above post.
Wait, non-US ST1300s have a flash to pass button? Is that like our 650 VSTrom where it's the same high-beam switch but can just be pressed down to flash momentarily but forward for continuous high beam?

I'd love to retrofit that to my bike if the connectors are compatible (even though flashing high beams is explicitly illegal in Oregon. What putzes).
 
Yes they do - exactly as you describe. Follow the link in the post above yours and scroll down to post #20.
They do it by injecting current from a different source into the high beam circuit. Otherwise with all 4 filaments powered, there would be an overload.
(See the circuit diagram at the top of the same thread)
 
I have owned a 2003 and a 2007A, neither have the ability turn the lights on/off, except with the ignition switch.
All civilian motorcycles sold new in Canada and the USA must be wired so that the lights come on when the ignition is turned on. The lights must remain on as long as the ignition is in the on position. This has been a requirement for several decades, but I don't remember what year it became effective.
 
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All motorcycle sold new in Canada and the USA must be wired so that the lights come on when the ignition is turned on. The lights must remain on as long as the ignition is in the on position. This has been a requirement for several decades, but I don't remember what year it became effective.
I had a 1980 that was wired that way, I think they started it in 1978.
 
Late 70s Safety Policies.
When they restricted motorcycle speedometers to... what was it, 120mph on the dial?
Maybe less.
I've slept since then, so I forget.
 
Late 70s Safety Policies.
When they restricted motorcycle speedometers to... what was it, 120mph on the dial?
Maybe less.
I've slept since then, so I forget.
1980 through 1982 the speedos maxed out at 85mph
 
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