This is awesome for us noobies! I have everything going back together and ground to a halt when reinstalling rear caliper I cant seem to get brakes open enough to slide over disc. Is there a trick to getting it back on? Any suggestions welcome. I did try to use a screwdrive, one end would open for the other to close.
Article [13] ST1300 - Reinstalling Rear Wheel
- Thread starter ChucksKLRST
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Sometimes you have to wiggle it some to get it over the disc... I've used the screwdriver many times to just get the pistons open a hair more which is all it takes. It helps if you can get a small piece of wood on between the pads on one end while using the screw driver on the other as the pistons will push in on one site as you're pushing the other side... Always remember to never touch your brakes between teh time you took the caliper off and putting it back on.
thanks, i'll give it a try
Wood shims (available at any lumber yard) work perfectly to hold the pads open and/or to pry them open.
Went out to attempt to work on the brake, but after being in the heat all day, I just could not do it. I taught the range part of MSF class this am and am DONE!
Great instructions, hope you don't mind, but I integrated the text and the pictures into a MS Word file and have the file saved to a Google Drive.
Link to Google Drive Files (viewing)
If not "kosher", I'll remove the link.
Thanks again for the extremely succinct and helpful write-ups.
Mike
Link to Google Drive Files (viewing)
If not "kosher", I'll remove the link.
Thanks again for the extremely succinct and helpful write-ups.
Mike
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ChucksKLRST
Team Colorado
No problem Mike. Just add my name to the credits and include this line the very end. "Now I am going riding, while you all reinstall your rear wheel. Mine is done." Thanks for marrying up my text to the pictures. Hope it has been a help to others as it was done about 5 years or so ago.
Done.
Great source of info here.....thanks kindly. Just purchased an 07' and in the process of changing all the fluids as well as rear tire. Having this info was a god send. Nice to know that you are doing it correctly when you are working on your own ride.
Cutter1300
What is best to clean old moly off pumpkin
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I did mine a couple of days ago. I used contact cleaner and small bits of rags. I cut up small pieces as one wipe and I tossed it into the garbage.
Use latex or equivalent rubber gloves as this is messy.
So, spray a bit of cleaner onto the rag, now using a flat blade screwdriver (or similar tool), stuff the rag in between the gear teeth, rag becomes dirty, toss it and start all over again with a clean rag.
Also, I have heard of people using Q-Tips also.
The only thing I would of liked to do is rotate the gear teeth in the pumpkin. Not sure how to do this with the rear wheel off. I was thinking about making a star like tool, insert it inside the gear teeth to rotate it.
Another way of rotating the pumpkin gear teeth is:
Remove the final drive spline from the rear tire. Insert, the final drive spline into the pumpkin and rotate.
It easier to clean the teeth in the pumpkin if they are near Bottom Dead Center
Cutter1300
Thanks
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ChucksKLRST
Team Colorado
Re: Reinstalling rear wheel ST1300
Pictures have been reestablished in Post one for this installation of the ST1300 Rear wheel.
Pictures have been reestablished in Post one for this installation of the ST1300 Rear wheel.
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Old thread for sure but one correction I think necessary. Chuck says to use LocTite Red to secure the caliper stopper bolt.
Honda branded HondaBond Red in picture is removable at a later time with appropriate force but LocTite branded Red formula is not removable later without heat or inappropriate force on a steel bolt threaded into aluminum. I think most of use use the word Loctite as both a noun and a verb and most of us DIY'ers should know Loctite brand Blue formula (removable) is what to use on the stopper bolt if you don't have a tube/bottle of Honda Pro Chemical Red on hand.
Honda branded HondaBond Red in picture is removable at a later time with appropriate force but LocTite branded Red formula is not removable later without heat or inappropriate force on a steel bolt threaded into aluminum. I think most of use use the word Loctite as both a noun and a verb and most of us DIY'ers should know Loctite brand Blue formula (removable) is what to use on the stopper bolt if you don't have a tube/bottle of Honda Pro Chemical Red on hand.
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Hi There , what is the finding eventually to your problem here, as I am experiencing similar issue and looking for some lesson learn from all senior owner ST1300 here, If you do not mind to share, I really appreciated.
Hi Chuck, I was wondering if you get any feedback to your suggestion here? , I would really appreciated if you may share, as I am experiencing similar issue and trying to figure it out
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ChucksKLRST
Team Colorado
Nope never go any feedback.
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Good write up and photos and was on the fence between the blue and the red loctite. Just one last pitch for any feedback before I finish my reassembly this morning
I've just replaced rear pads and reinstalled the wheel and only snugged the stopper bolt and axle nut to do an initial wheel spin test. With my rear caliper off, I can get a spin of about 2 1/4 rotations, in place after a SMC test and release [by hand] I can get about 1 3/4 rotations. This after relubricating both caliper slide pins, SMC pivot bolt needle bearings and SMC clevis bushing.
At disassembly, I wiped the existing film of grease off the axle bolt and did not apply any yet.
I've got some concerns about how much clearance there is between the swing arm and the axle. My photo with the light in the background makes this clearance appear greater than it is and once the swing arm to wheel spacer [whatever it is] gap of maybe 1/8 to 3/16" closes [before applying any significant torque] it [axle perpendicular to swingarm] doesn't move.
I'm guessing the film of grease on the axle is to provide lubrication for a couple of seals, and everything else; spacer, inner bearing races, ect should get locked up in place with the shaft.
I'm wondering if it bears mentioning to avoid getting any grease between the last bit of the axle and swingarm bore.
I've just replaced rear pads and reinstalled the wheel and only snugged the stopper bolt and axle nut to do an initial wheel spin test. With my rear caliper off, I can get a spin of about 2 1/4 rotations, in place after a SMC test and release [by hand] I can get about 1 3/4 rotations. This after relubricating both caliper slide pins, SMC pivot bolt needle bearings and SMC clevis bushing.
At disassembly, I wiped the existing film of grease off the axle bolt and did not apply any yet.
I've got some concerns about how much clearance there is between the swing arm and the axle. My photo with the light in the background makes this clearance appear greater than it is and once the swing arm to wheel spacer [whatever it is] gap of maybe 1/8 to 3/16" closes [before applying any significant torque] it [axle perpendicular to swingarm] doesn't move.
I'm guessing the film of grease on the axle is to provide lubrication for a couple of seals, and everything else; spacer, inner bearing races, ect should get locked up in place with the shaft.
I'm wondering if it bears mentioning to avoid getting any grease between the last bit of the axle and swingarm bore.
