What did you do with your Yamaha today?

The color-matched pigtails on the battery tender are a nice touch Chuck. ;)

Here is the complete Color Match SAM_1415.jpg


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I never even noticed they were silver for that year, much better now.
 
My picture isn't as pretty as Chucks' lol... doing 1st valve check/adj... all the exhausts were tight so they needed to be done but the intakes were close to the middle and in spec. The nice part is that means just one cam comes out but holy cow... remove seat, tank, airbox, throttle bodies, about 10 electrical connectors, disconnect several hard line brake and clutch connections to the frame and then, maybe, you have enough room to take off the valve cover... Then, drain oil and remove the clutch cover...

The adjustment was good.. although at first I added instead of subtracted but I figured that out before I put the cam chain tensioner back in which is a royal pain... had to take mine to a dealer and it took 5 of them to finally get it set. I'll install a manual one on the next check, I fooled with that thing for a whole day.

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After 28k miles the spark plugs still looked good, the gap was at the end of the range.

IMG_20161206_094508[1].jpg
 
My picture isn't as pretty as Chucks' lol... doing 1st valve check/adj... all the exhausts were tight so they needed to be done but the intakes were close to the middle and in spec. The nice part is that means just one cam comes out but holy cow... remove seat, tank, airbox, throttle bodies, about 10 electrical connectors, disconnect several hard line brake and clutch connections to the frame and then, maybe, you have enough room to take off the valve cover... Then, drain oil and remove the clutch cover...

The adjustment was good.. although at first I added instead of subtracted but I figured that out before I put the cam chain tensioner back in which is a royal pain... had to take mine to a dealer and it took 5 of them to finally get it set. I'll install a manual one on the next check, I fooled with that thing for a whole day.

IMG_20161207_090454[1].jpg

IMG_20161207_090601[1].jpg

IMG_20161207_081109[1].jpg

IMG_20161208_171119[1].jpg

After 28k miles the spark plugs still looked good, the gap was at the end of the range.

IMG_20161206_094508[1].jpg

Ughh, not looking forward to this though it is a way to "become one with your machine". What diameter shims are used are they different to the ST1300? Hoping not to have to buy another Hot Cams Kit.
 
Ughh, not looking forward to this though it is a way to "become one with your machine". What diameter shims are used are they different to the ST1300? Hoping not to have to buy another Hot Cams Kit.

Different shims diameters - 9.48mm - but I have a kit so let me know when and I'll send it to you to use.
 
Different shims diameters - 9.48mm - but I have a kit so let me know when and I'll send it to you to use.

That's very generous Joe! Thanks, I might take you up on that. Not sure when or if I'll get into it myself or not. ~$400 at the local dealer here is looking better all the time. How much trouble was it to maintain the timing when the tensioner was removed and replaced?
 
That's very generous Joe! Thanks, I might take you up on that. Not sure when or if I'll get into it myself or not. ~$400 at the local dealer here is looking better all the time. How much trouble was it to maintain the timing when the tensioner was removed and replaced?

I didn't notice it jump. I did put 6 zip ties on the intake cam sprocket and chain. I checked everything again after the adj so I think I'm ok..... still anxious about starting it for the first time lol
 
Wow, working on a valve check/adj today a little... what a pain!... I really miss the ST1300 now. You don't realize how spoiled you are.. You would think the frame was welded around the engine as getting the valve cover off is ridiculously difficult. I'd say it's worth $600 to have the dealer mess with this thing. Love the bike, but not at all user friendly when it comes to this particular maintenance item. I may do this one and then trade it in on another V4 before the next check..

I remember reading a post a year or so back that the valve clearance check on a C14 Kawasaki is such a time-consuming PIA that many owners (if not most of them) never do it again after the first check. I don't remember if I read that on this site or the COG website.
 
I wish the manufacturers would all go to hydraulic lash adjusters. There are some fixed in-head designs that will work with high RPM engines.


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I wish the manufacturers would all go to hydraulic lash adjusters. There are some fixed in-head designs that will work with high RPM engines.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, but... how much dealer revenue would be cut by no longer having valve checks/adjustments to do? I'm not usually so 'conspiracy-minded' but sometimes some things just don't make sense on a bike that's otherwise so well thought-out.
 
Yeah, but... how much dealer revenue would be cut by no longer having valve checks/adjustments to do? I'm not usually so 'conspiracy-minded' but sometimes some things just don't make sense on a bike that's otherwise so well thought-out.

Probably wouldn't have that much effect. The high cost drives folks like you and I to DIY and others, such as the Concours example, just decide to ignore it instead of paying up. The old Honda Nighthawk S had in in-head lash adjuster that removes the weight of the lash adjuster from the reciprocating masses allowing at least a 9,500 RPM redline. Many cars now use this system including Mazda's Sky Active system and even my 5.0L Mustang GT's Coyote engine (7,000 RPM redline). I thought this type of valve system was really going to take off after the Nighthawk S came out but there does not seem to be another motorcycle to use it. :(
 

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Some bikes do but unfortunately, none of the ones I want.. LOL
 
Well, got it all back together and it started.. .lol.. wooohoo.. just need to re-zip tie some stuff and go for visit my Mon in LA for a test ride and I'll be good for the Last Ride of the Year.
 
The "Baby Block" V4 derived from the same basic engine architecture as the small block V8 used in the racing Corvettes is used in the hottest ST bike around, Motus. Like the Chevy small blocks, it has hydraulic lifters in the engine block. Of course, it's a slow revving engine by motorcycle standards, but like the big V-twin cruisers it has gobs of low end torque.
 
The "Baby Block" V4 derived from the same basic engine architecture as the small block V8 used in the racing Corvettes is used in the hottest ST bike around, Motus. Like the Chevy small blocks, it has hydraulic lifters in the engine block. Of course, it's a slow revving engine by motorcycle standards, but like the big V-twin cruisers it has gobs of low end torque.

I believe the hydraulic lash adjusters in the Motus (didn't realize it had hydraulics) are the same as in a traditional OHV push rod V-8 engine where they are built into the followers and ride on the camshaft located in the "V" of the engine. Hydraulic lifters, sometimes called tappets, are heavier than solid lifters and because they are part of the valve train's reciprocating mass, are restricted to fairly low RPM applications. The hydraulic adjusters like the Nighhawk S uses nicely sidestep this issue.
 
Funny thing after I put the bike back together, I started it up because I wanted to check the oil so I was letting it warm up and all of a sudden it started sputtering and popping and died and I thought I had screwed up the timing..... out of gas lol
 
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