Can one hide a FI code?

jdmccright

jdmccright

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May 21, 2013
Messages
323
Location
La Plata, MD
Bike
2000 ST1100
Low mile 2005 ST for sale nearby for a too-good price. No listed issues but I'm aware of some of their "habits": windshield, FI codes, dash screen.

My main hesitation to getting an early 1300 is the FI issue. My question is can a trouble code be reset and hidden like car CELs that won't pop up again for several cycles? I appreciate your help!
 
Don't buy a bike that the guy has warmed up, and may have ridden several minutes/miles etc.
Start the bike cold, Do NOT touch the throttle, watch the RPM to make sure it raised on the enrichener circuit, then dropped back down to 1000 after you get one bar showing on the dash.
Let it warm up to three bars, then raise the RPM up to 4200 RPM and hold it there for at least one minute.
If the ECU is on its way out, you should get a flashing FI light at that point, which may indicate the 25/26 code.
It would be even better if you could ride it on an extended ride for 20 minutes or so, to see if HEAT trips the code(s) due to crispy sub wire harnesses.
On a Low Mileage Bike, that is that old, at a "too-good price" you are aware that you are more than likely going to have to throw at least $1K dollars in replacement parts (if you can find them) and that is IF you do the work yourself.
After doing these bikes for the past 20 years, I've learned to walk/run away from low mileage garage queens, but that is just me.
Good luck
 
You are most likely referring to the code 25/26 issue. Once it is cleared it will reset when the RPM exceeds 4200 if there is an actual knock sensor circuit problem, or in the case of the phantom code 25/26, if the ECM thinks that there is a knock sensor circuit problem. It doesn't matter how often you clear the code 25/26, every time these criteria are met the ECM sets the code.
 
What Andrew said for the dreaded 25/26 code goes for any code thrown by the bike. Once the conditions are met, i.e. a fault is seen by the ECU, then the code will show up. Only way to
'hide' it is to reset the code or fix the problem. Or put black tape over the Fi light. If you have been reading posts here (I recognize your screen name, so you have been around for a while) you know that '07 and earlier bikes are more likely to have the ECU failure than '08 and later bikes.
 
I heard that after replacing the mufflers to an aftermarket (Delkevic...) the code disappears. Don't know how true.
 
I've yet to encounter a Honda vehicle which did not benefit from minor and major improvements that the mid-run refresh brought.

The ST1100 got the alternator upgrade and then later suspension improvements among other things. Similarly, my 88 Integra, my 08 TL and my 12 ST1300 all benefited from Honda resolving issues identified on the introductory model.

Before I bought mine, I read through the ST1300 issues and concluded regardless of the price, only an 08 or later would suit me for exactly this one reason - not just ECU failures but the difficulty in sourcing replacement parts.

Good luck!
 
MaxPete said:
....and that is why I like my "replacement" ST - an '83 R100RS with two 40 mm Bing carbs and about as much electronics as natural gas barbecue.

Pete
Click to expand...
Carbs are their own beast, but I've yet to need to touch my 1100 after 12+ years owning it. The less electrical reliance the better. My son's 1987 Yammie OTOH...

Well, the thread is a now a moot point since the bike was sold whist having this convo. It is someone else's problem now. But still good to know when I do decide to sidegrade to a 1300.

Thanks again y'all!
 
MaxPete said:
....and that is why I like my "replacement" ST - an '83 R100RS with two 40 mm Bing carbs and about as much electronics as natural gas barbecue.

Pete
Click to expand...
Your gas barbecue has electronics? Maybe the piezo igniter?
jdmccright said:
Carbs are their own beast, but I've yet to need to touch my 1100 after 12+ years owning it. The less electrical reliance the better. My son's 1987 Yammie OTOH...

Well, the thread is a now a moot point since the bike was sold whist having this convo. It is someone else's problem now. But still good to know when I do decide to sidegrade to a 1300.

Thanks again y'all!
Click to expand...
There is a good reason for old tech. A friend of mine recently had his boiler (hot water circ system) fitted with a power pile standing pilot ignition system. The 'modern' pilotless ignition was thrown out. He has had a number of power outages and got tired of freezing in the winter for a few days. This old system uses a thermocouple to sense that the pilot is burning and a cheap thermostat calls for heat. No line voltage needed.
 
I’ve ripped out FI systems that were nothing but problems on Harleys, and replaced them with carburetors and the bikes are still on the road today, and stopped leaving the owners stranded every time they tried to go on a road trip.
Simple is better.
Carb jets and parts are much easier to source than FI stuff.
 
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