Cutting out again

An ECU that is throwing those codes means the circuit board is breaking up and it usually throws the knock sensor codes etc.
The OP’s ECU may be at the threshold of the same damage, but has not yet started throwing codes etc.
I don’t agree that trying to trouble shoot a possible ECU issue with a known damaged one would solve anything.
Swapping out a known good one (loaner) would be a much better idea.
And much better than throwing parts at the issues or letting the dealership play “let’s try this” etc.
Send him yours.
 
OK, I'll play.....
I've sourced a working ECU in good conditon for an 07.
Here's the deal, the last time John (Aniwack) sent a loaner ECU out to a forum member, it vanished without a trace.
I've also had one, shall I use the word stolen, when I shipped one to a forum member to try, who also vanished without a trace.
And as everyone knows, these are very expensive parts etc.
So, IF the original poster, wants to pay shipping both ways, and is willing to put up a $600 dollar deposit, we will ship him one to see if it solves his issues.
If it does not return, the deposit will be kept. If the ECU returns in the same good working condition and has not been damaged, the deposit will be refunded in full.
After loosing a couple, this is the best we can do.
If the OP is interested, he can reach out and request John (Aniwack) for shipping and paypal info.
:WCP1:
 
Have you inspected the fuses / fuse box and all those connections?
 
Did you ever get a hold of a new Fuel Pressure Regulator?
 
@Josh_ST did your bike run badly or you were just throwing the codes and so replaced the ecm? If so, that's worth a try.
 
OK, I'll play.....
I've sourced a working ECU in good conditon for an 07.
Here's the deal, the last time John (Aniwack) sent a loaner ECU out to a forum member, it vanished without a trace.
I've also had one, shall I use the word stolen, when I shipped one to a forum member to try, who also vanished without a trace.
And as everyone knows, these are very expensive parts etc.
So, IF the original poster, wants to pay shipping both ways, and is willing to put up a $600 dollar deposit, we will ship him one to see if it solves his issues.
If it does not return, the deposit will be kept. If the ECU returns in the same good working condition and has not been damaged, the deposit will be refunded in full.
After loosing a couple, this is the best we can do.
If the OP is interested, he can reach out and request John (Aniwack) for shipping and paypal info.
:WCP1:
Thanks Igofar. 102km today and then changed my rear tire. When the fuel gets below 3 bars I'm removing the upper tank and check the throttle sensor and the speed sensor. Today I also checked all the valves as it was done about 35k ago to rule that out. All in spec. Yesterday I done some voltage reading on the coils running and not running when it was hot then after the engine was completely cold. I'll post those maybe tomorrow..
My last resort is the dealer and if they determine it needs a ECM I may take you up on your offer shipped 1 way.

I want to thank everyone for all the comments and suggestions. I really appreciate them.. Live Long Enjoy Life
 
@Josh_ST did your bike run badly or you were just throwing the codes and so replaced the ecm? If so, that's worth a try.

Just had the FI light come on at sustained 4k RPM and it retarded the timing from then on.
 
Last edited:
@Josh_ST did your bike run badly or you were just throwing the codes and so replaced the ecm? If so, that's worth a try.
No codes for me.. it acts like water went through it. No back fire. Lights stayed normal. At one pint I would pull in the clutch and go full throttle. The bike would Rev to 6k then back to 4k then up to 6 then back to 4
 
Last edited:
Smoking Gun... I hope
Cold in Nova Scotia today 12c feels like 10c..
I'm checking the speed sensor for voltage.

Like Igofar said 'it's an easy check'

Disconnect, turn key on measure voltage. I got 10.96v . If voltage is present, connect and put + lead on pink and - on green. Slowly rotate tire and it should read 5v.. mine was 2.5v..

Should I order one?
#Igofar

Check video below
Smoking Gun.. I HOPE
 

Attachments

  • 20230509_142012.jpg
    20230509_142012.jpg
    127.7 KB · Views: 64
Very common failure point, enough that I keep a couple in stock in my parts cabinet for folks traveling through.
Sounds like you may have found your gremlin.
Keeping fingers crossed for you.
 
Very common failure point, enough that I keep a couple in stock in my parts cabinet for folks traveling through.
Sounds like you may have found your gremlin.
Keeping fingers crossed for you.
Ordered $190cdn with O ring. Be here next Tuesday

I would have never checked that..

Thanks again Igofar :banr1::hat1:
 
Hi to everyone. I've got same issue with my '02 ST1300 about 87k miles. Last sunday I was riding about 380 miles and last 50 miles start cutting out just like on your video. Same happened a year ago but maybe one time. I read all comments took me an hour :D Respect you really want to make it work. What I did is Turn off my bike and let it sit for 5 min, after that it go back to normal. I called my friend who repair bikes in his garage and got few years of experience, he said that it could be anything, he was pretty sure that's not spark plugs, or any mechanic parts. He said "so you Reset your bike with key for 5 min and it start working" that might be more electric components but not sure what exactly. I know that's not helpful at all but I'll comment in future if I find anything helpful. Good luck.
 
I hope the speed sensor can cause issues like you're having. In my case though, I only noticed the speedo bouncing up and down with absolutley no negative engine performance at idle, riding normally or when accelerating hard.
Good luck
 
I’ve seen at least three different types of failure symptoms with speed sensor units going out.
Like yours, my first one bounced the speedo down and then recovered in the blink of an eye, the lights did go out for that moment, but I was blasting down the hwy and didn’t notice any loss of power, may have been because I was distracted etc.
The second one felt like hesitation and then someone turned the key off then back on.
The last one was vague cutting out, but had no affect on the speedo reading or lights.
Which is why I suggested he test it, and also said I hope this would fix it.
 
I’ve seen at least three different types of failure symptoms with speed sensor units going out.
Like yours, my first one bounced the speedo down and then recovered in the blink of an eye, the lights did go out for that moment, but I was blasting down the hwy and didn’t notice any loss of power, may have been because I was distracted etc.
The second one felt like hesitation and then someone turned the key off then back on.
The last one was vague cutting out, but had no affect on the speedo reading or lights.
Which is why I suggested he test it, and also said I hope this would fix it.

We ALL hope this fixes it.
 
I'm second guessing myself. Reading was 2.5v
Procedure said Repeat 0 to 5v. Mine was in the middle which should be good.. but bike was totally cold. Tomorrow morning I'm going redue the test cold then let idle to 3 bars then take reading. But that may not show anything because the bike always works great til it screws up.. the test should be done right after the problem.. .... hmmm.. might also go for a drive til it screws up.
20230509_142012.jpg
 
Back
Top Bottom