Should the fork tubes slide back through the triple tree with a tiny bit of grease, or dry? Then tightened.
fork install
- Thread starter DeanR
- Start date
No grease, just clean and dry.
OP
OP
Kept em dry and Scotchbrited the triple tree clamp innards to get em shiney. Thanks
When refitting the axle a little grease is no bad thing and will help make the insertion easier. I make a point of tightening the axle nut first, then bouncing the forks to let the offside clamp find the most relaxed/aligned position on the axle, then tighten the clamps. You get the least stiction/binding by doing this.
I seem to remember once or twice when the tubes didn't want to go back through the clamps as easily as I expected, I inserted a large flat blade screwdriver into the small opening on the clamp and turned it a bit to open the clamp just a little. That made the insertion a piece of cake. I think even after releasing the pinch bolts they sometimes have a little spring to them, not enough to prevent you from pulling the tube out, but after the tube comes out the remaining spring tension makes the clamp openings shrink to a little smaller than ideal. Doesn't happen every time, but I remember doing it at least once over the 28 years I've owned the bike.
OP
OP
Tubes went back through easily, no problem. I spoke with the local RaceTech guy who did the work. He was great by the way ... Steve at Suspension Systems in Alexander NY.
He said use nothing, as TerryS said. (I too always grease the axle). Only the Scotchbrite pad to tidy up the triple tree clamps.
Hope I notice a difference with these fancy fork innards! (not that things felt bad before).
He said use nothing, as TerryS said. (I too always grease the axle). Only the Scotchbrite pad to tidy up the triple tree clamps.
Hope I notice a difference with these fancy fork innards! (not that things felt bad before).
Dean.
This brings back memories of my spring and fork oil change in my 1300. What difference when complete.
Glad to hear you had success.
Dave
This brings back memories of my spring and fork oil change in my 1300. What difference when complete.
Glad to hear you had success.
Dave
Also make sure the axle bolt slides easily through both fork legs to insure that the forks are both at the same depth. After install of wheel the tire should be centered in vertically in forks
If you put in Gold Valves, you will notice the difference when you roll over the first bump. Then you will want GVs in your rear shock, too.
Grease on the axle also prevents rust, which can make removal next year a bit difficult. First time I pulled my wheel, I put anti seize on the axle. Big mistake, as I found out when I removed the wheel a year later and ended up with anti seize on my hands, my pants, shirt sleeves, my cheek and a dab on my left ear....
Grease on the axle also prevents rust, which can make removal next year a bit difficult. First time I pulled my wheel, I put anti seize on the axle. Big mistake, as I found out when I removed the wheel a year later and ended up with anti seize on my hands, my pants, shirt sleeves, my cheek and a dab on my left ear....
OP
OP
Regarding the anti-dive. There is an item Honda calls a 'stop ring' #1 which apparently goes on the end of the 'pivot collar/bushing #2/3. Looks like an itty bitty split ring on the fiche. Is it? There is, a really tiny groove at the end of #2 to accept it.
I don't seem to have it anywhere and am wondering if I can just do without. Since the anti-dive is now disabled anyway with the Gold Valves.
I don't seem to have it anywhere and am wondering if I can just do without. Since the anti-dive is now disabled anyway with the Gold Valves.
Last edited:
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Yes on the split ring, install one. BTDT