Gear shift stuck

[ST1]

I have ordered the bush and boot.
Waiting for them to arrive and give it a go.
Is the rubber boot easy to change?

The boot (45504410003) is £12.66 ~ Dave Silver.
I replaced the "Piston Master Set: 22886MCSG01"
£38.40 from Dave Silver.

I looked on the David silver website and the master set is out of stock.
What was the issue with yours.

 

[Mr.E]

The job is a slightly fiddly - just needs a little dedicated time.
Check the wear limits (attached).
I removed the Reservoir from the handle bar and tipped it upside down to ensure all the crud is out.
Fowlers charge silly money so it might pay to message Silver and chase the Master Set...
My problem was difficulty getting out of 1st into neutral when stationary with a warm/hot engine.
Don't forget ~ the Reservoir Oil Level is the MINIMUM!

 

[ST1]

I have replaced the bras Bush, cleaned associated components.
Have not replaced rubber boot as yet will test ride tomorrow.

 

[Igofar]

In your picture, I can clearly see the torn end of the boot still attached to the center of the push rod.
You need to remove that.
When you put the new boot in place, it will have a large end, and a narrow end. The push rod will have a square cut end, and a rounded end.
Take the rounded end and insert it into the new boot from the outside (narrow end of boot) keep pushing the rod through the boot until the boot turns itself inside out.
At this point, you will pull the open end of the boot into the channel (middle of the pushrod) and it will snap into place. You then turn the boot back into its correct position.
The rubber boot will have a hard "ring" around the edge of the boot, and this simply presses into the housing. You can use a small dowel or tool to gently push it evenly into place.

 

[ST1]

In your picture, I can clearly see the torn end of the boot still attached to the center of the push rod.
You need to remove that.
When you put the new boot in place, it will have a large end, and a narrow end. The push rod will have a square cut end, and a rounded end.
Take the rounded end and insert it into the new boot from the outside (narrow end of boot) keep pushing the rod through the boot until the boot turns itself inside out.
At this point, you will pull the open end of the boot into the channel (middle of the pushrod) and it will snap into place. You then turn the boot back into its correct position.
The rubber boot will have a hard "ring" around the edge of the boot, and this simply presses into the housing. You can use a small dowel or tool to gently push it evenly into place.

I have replaced the rubber boot, all working OK. Will take off lower fairing cover and clean off crud and inspect secondary master cylinder.

 

[Igofar]

You say you replaced the boot, however, your picture shows the boot is not attached to the push rod?

 

[ST1]

You say you replaced the boot, however, your picture shows the boot is not attached to the push rod?

Just an update I have removed the clutch slave cylinder, I have a new one to replace this with.

 

[ST1]

Just an update I have removed the clutch slave cylinder, I have a new one to replace this with.

I have cleaned off the old gasket, it is very gungy in the engine casing. I notice a seal around the clutch push rod.
Is it worth replacing this?

 

[ST1]

I have cleaned off the old gasket, it is very gungy in the engine casing. I notice a seal around the clutch push rod.
Is it worth replacing this?

I am having difficulty removing the pushrod oil seal, have tried a self tapper.

 

[wjbertrand]

Maybe remove the push rod? Not sure on these bikes, but other bikes I’ve owned it can just be pulled out. This might allow easier access to the seal.

 

[ST1]

Maybe remove the push rod? Not sure on these bikes, but other bikes I’ve owned it can just be pulled out. This might allow easier access to the seal.

The push rod fouls on the frame.
Have removed now.

 

[ST1]

The push rod fouls on the frame.
Have removed now.

Cleaned up.

 

[Igofar]

The trick removing the oil seal is to use the smallest sheet metal screw, after you file the tip flat, screw it in, place a small block of wood on rear cover, the use long needle nose pliers to lever it out.
Constant pressure and time waiting it out works better than tearing and pulling which destroys it as you found out.
You can press the seal in with some light assembly lube, a deep socket, your piece of wood, and leverage.
Your shifter linkage and joints look completely destroyed.
If they don’t clean up with something like evaporust or rust removal fluid, you may have to replace the entire linkage assembly.
Your doing a good job repairing stuff, hang in there.

 

[ST1]

The trick removing the oil seal is to use the smallest sheet metal screw, after you file the tip flat, screw it in, place a small block of wood on rear cover, the use long needle nose pliers to lever it out.
Constant pressure and time waiting it out works better than tearing and pulling which destroys it as you found out.
You can press the seal in with some light assembly lube, a deep socket, your piece of wood, and leverage.
Your shifter linkage and joints look completely destroyed.
If they don’t clean up with something like evaporust or rust removal fluid, you may have to replace the entire linkage assembly.
Your doing a good job repairing stuff, hang in there.

My is to replace the clutch slave cylinder and put the bike back together.
I have rust proofed unsiezed the centre stand and spray painted the exhaust with heat proof paint.