Handlebar Accessory Question

[Big_Jim59]

It's time to replace the seals in the front end of my St1300. I hate to do it now but it needs to be done and the weather is cool enough that I can actually work out in the shop without melting but that's not what I need to ask.

The instructions for the fork rebuild recommend popping the inset on top of the stanchion and loosening the top cap before removing the fork leg. My handlebars appears to be set back. (see picture) and in the way of this operation. The bike is new to me and it had a number of accessories. I am wondering if this is an accessory and if it would be much trouble to remove. I do not mind the ride position but I am a pretty tall guy with a pretty long reach and a sportier ride position wouldn't be unwelcome.

 

[marc11]

It appears so to me. So it's take the bars off or put the fork in a protected vice and crack the top cap loose. You could also try to drop the forks down to the lower clamp, and snug the clamp a few inches below the fork cap and see if you can get in there to loosen it. Not sure if clearance is enough.

 

[Josh_ST]

It appears to have a Helibar riser installed. You can just remove it for your service, or permanently if you so choose. You'll need the little factory cover for the middle of the handlebars if you put it back to factory (Although I believe it's just cosmetic).

 

[Big_Jim59]

It appears so to me. So it's take the bars off or put the fork in a protected vice and crack the top cap loose. You could also try to drop the forks down to the lower clamp, and snug the clamp a few inches below the fork cap and see if you can get in there to loosen it. Not sure if clearance is enough.

I am pretty sure I can drop the fork leg out and deal with the cap in a protected vice. It's just that I noticed the overhang on the set back.

 

[Big_Jim59]

It appears to have a Helibar riser installed. You can just remove it for your service, or permanently if you so choose. You'll need the little factory cover for the middle of the handlebars if you put it back to factory (Although I believe it's just cosmetic).

At this point "cosmetic has left the building. The bike looks fantastic for ten feet away but a closer examination gives away its flaws and the fact that it hit the ground hard at least one in it's life. I do not really mind the riding posture but I have not had it on a long ride yet so the jury is still out on that score.

 

[ST Gui]

I am wondering if this is an accessory and if it would be much trouble to remove. I do not mind the ride position but I am a pretty tall guy with a pretty long reach and a sportier ride position wouldn't be unwelcome.

That looks just like the Helibar riser I've got on my ST. Not having a pretty long reach the riser improved my comfort significantly. The forward lean put weight on my wrists and shoulders. It was barely noticeable on half-day rides but it got noticeable on longer rides.

I put the riser on after one ride to MT and before a second. The difference was amazing. It might not be so for someone with a pretty long reach. But I'd recommend giving it more time if you plan on some long days in the saddle especially if any of them are consecutive.

It can be removed and replaced as needed 'til you settle on how you want to roll. If you decide you don't need it then you can sell it for some decent $$.

If you remove the riser you'll need this:



It's not the cosmetic piece mentioned above.

Here it's removed in preparation for mounting the riser:

 

[Big_Jim59]

That looks just like the Helibar riser I've got on my ST.

Wow! Thanks for the pictures. I will leave them, as is, for now. I want to get my fork seal project done. Then I will see how my first long trip goes. I did notice that I had a bit of difficulty raising the tank and now I know why I do not have the clearance I need.

 

[ST Gui]

These excellent pics are from another member's post here. I forgot to note the name to give proper credit. I'll have to look that up.

Shamelessly lifted from Dano7572.

 

[Bmacleod]

At this point "cosmetic has left the building. The bike looks fantastic for ten feet away but a closer examination gives away its flaws and the fact that it hit the ground hard at least one in it's life. I do not really mind the riding posture but I have not had it on a long ride yet so the jury is still out on that score.

Its quite easy to loosen both clamps and lower the tube 4 or 5 inches then tighten the lower clamp to hold the fork tube and then loosen the cap. Once loose, again loosen the lower clamp and remove the fork. Once the tube is below the upper clamp, it is simple to get in with an allen wrench to undo the cap. If space is at a premium for the tools you have, you can improvise by putting a 17mm nut in the cap recess and use a 17mm wrench to loosen the cap.

Edit: sorry, i meant to quote your post above this quote, but you get the idea

 

[STRider]

Its quite easy to loosen both clamps and lower the tube 4 or 5 inches then tighten the lower clamp to hold the fork tube and then loosen the cap.

Why are you lowering the tube in the clamps before loosening the cap?

Just expose the tops as in the photos @ST Gui stole from @Dano7572, loosen only the top clamp and then loosen the fork caps before removing from the clamps completely.

Am I missing something here? It's what I've done on virtually every bike I've owned.

 

[Larry Fine]

Am I missing something here?

 

[Big_Jim59]

Its quite easy to loosen both clamps and lower the tube 4 or 5 inches then tighten the lower clamp to hold the fork tube and then loosen the cap. Once loose, again loosen the lower clamp and remove the fork. Once the tube is below the upper clamp, it is simple to get in with an allen wrench to undo the cap. If space is at a premium for the tools you have, you can improvise by putting a 17mm nut in the cap recess and use a 17mm wrench to loosen the cap.

Edit: sorry, i meant to quote your post above this quote, but you get the idea

Really good idea. I am in the habit of over thinking everything and I am gathering information like torque specs and fluid capacity before my parts get here. I have rebuilt forks before but it has been a number of years. As I age I sometimes feel reluctant to start projects that would have been a breeze in my youth.

 

[Bmacleod]

Why are you lowering the tube in the clamps before loosening the cap?

Just expose the tops as in the photos @ST Gui stole from @Dano7572, loosen only the top clamp and then loosen the fork caps before removing from the clamps completely.

Am I missing something here? It's what I've done on virtually every bike I've owned.

Just saves having to remove the bars and risers to get at the caps.

 

[Big_Jim59]

I will let you all know how I get on. There are some really good resources on this site. I have gone over the how-too post here and I have ordered my parts and my fork oil. I have read all I can get my hands on and watched a few videos so I am pretty confidant. I also ordered an oil filter to change the engine oil. Might as well.

 

[snowmoer]

I will let you all know how I get on. There are some really good resources on this site. I have gone over the how-too post here and I have ordered my parts and my fork oil. I have read all I can get my hands on and watched a few videos so I am pretty confidant. I also ordered an oil filter to change the engine oil. Might as well.

If you have aftermarket springs in, you will want to remove and put the caps back on like they are after you take off the riser. I always had to stand on the pegs and put my full weight on my socket wrench to get them off so they did not shoot off after you got them loose. Then I needed my weight to get them back on without messing up the threads. I could not get enough force to get the cap even close to the top of the tube when it was in a vice.

If you have stock springs, then I think they can be done in a vice. If you do not want to take them on and off when in the triple tree, then you will need to get a cap compressor with aftermarket springs.

 

[Big_Jim59]

If you have aftermarket springs in, you will want to remove and put the caps back on like they are after you take off the riser. I always had to stand on the pegs and put my full weight on my socket wrench to get them off so they did not shoot off after you got them loose. Then I needed my weight to get them back on without messing up the threads. I could not get enough force to get the cap even close to the top of the tube when it was in a vice.

If you have stock springs, then I think they can be done in a vice. If you do not want to take them on and off when in the triple tree, then you will need to get a cap compressor with aftermarket springs.

We shall see. My guess is they are the OEM springs but I could be wrong. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[ST Gui]

My guess is they are the OEM springs

The spacers used my be a clue. Not have had spring work done on my ST I don't know if anyone would use the factory spacers with aftermarket springs. I also don't know how obvious it would be by examining the springs themselves. If they're progressive springs that would be obvious.
I think.

 

[Big_Jim59]

I have run into my first question.

Is there anything I need to know before pulling the ABS calipers and the front fender? It looks like there are cross over lines behind the fender. I do not want to go charging into uncharted waters without asking first.

 

[SMSW]

IIRC, you remove one bolt to let you remove the ABS sensor. You are not going to touch the hose-caliper banjo bolts, only the bolts holding the calipers to the bike and the hose brackets. Once you loosen the fender bolts, it will come out. Be careful, there is a funny shaped 'nut' on the inside of the fender and that has a tendency to run and hide under your workbench. That 'nut' is held captive in a recess inside the fender.

Suspend the calipers on a piece of string or wire from something solid above - not the hoses.

When I did this, I took a 2x4, drilled a hole just under the fork diameter near the end, and then sanded it on my drum sander to a close fit. Then I made a saw kerf down the length of the 2x4 centered on the hole. A half inch hole crosswise and a piece of threaded rod made my fork clamp finished.

A similar clamp is shown in the pic below of my NC750 fork w/cogent dynamics cartridge emulator and caps.

 

[Big_Jim59]

IIRC, you remove one bolt to let you remove the ABS sensor. You are not going to touch the hose-caliper banjo bolts, only the bolts holding the calipers to the bike and the hose brackets. Once you loosen the fender bolts, it will come out. Be careful, there is a funny shaped 'nut' on the inside of the fender and that has a tendency to run and hide under your workbench. That 'nut' is held captive in a recess inside the fender.

Suspend the calipers on a piece of string or wire from something solid above - not the hoses.

When I did this, I took a 2x4, drilled a hole just under the fork diameter near the end, and then sanded it on my drum sander to a close fit. Then I made a saw kerf down the length of the 2x4 centered on the hole. A half inch hole crosswise and a piece of threaded rod made my fork clamp finished.

A similar clamp is shown in the pic below of my NC750 fork w/cogent dynamics cartridge emulator and caps.

I love that set up. It lets you drain the fork and gives you a solid platform to work from all without scratching the chrome. Very nifty indeed.