You are correct, I did manage to get it out but I really appreciate the pictures because it has to go back together again and I am not sure I am smart enough to remember how it goes! Last night I was just sitting looking at it and it came to me that the front wheel needs to come out. I guess I skipped that step in the front fork disassembly instructions. I also found the 8mm bolts that are black on black and well hidden so that helped. I hope the front fender removal is the hardest part of the process but that's just wishful thinking.You probably sorted it by now, but I enjoyed making this. Always wise to support the calipers with out the brake lines doing the work. Bungee up to the triple or the like.
The brake lines won't be detached, just the fasteners to the fork. Putting a wood shim in between the pad and rotor will help with removal. Keeping them (shims) in while doing your maintenance will ease in installing. Hope this helps.
I just slipped the left fork out. I removed the cap with a suitable sized bolt head (turned round and the threaded end held with a vice-grip) and I have set the whole thing to drain, Tomorrow I will purchase a long reach "6 metric Allen wrench socket and finish the tear down, clean up and reassembly. It all looks pretty straight forward but at my age it's the getting up and down and crawling around on the floor that's the real trouble.
An impact wrench makes removing that bottom bolt easy. Some guys have had a hard time getting it out, most do not. When you reinstall the front wheel, do not reverse those two spacers. I put a little dab of red paint on the right one - boater's saying, red right returning. People have installed the spacers improperly and wondered why the brake pads drag. Be careful not to over tighten the pinch bolts at the bottom of the fork. I think I read somewhere that this can break off the bottom of the fork.
I'm not sure how an impact wrench works with a hex socket. I don't know, I never tried - I just didn't think that it would add any extra grip.
Yep, Back when I rebuilt older Triumph forks we would install the fork leg, put the allen screw in the bottom of the leg, pore in the right amount of oil into the slider, cram it on and spin the allen with the rattle gun (the small one of course,) The screw would keep the oi; from leaking out and it save all the pain of filling the oil past the spring.
I did post it a while back but my link was buried in my text. This is a great resource and I studied it like a freshman cramming for final. I even took notes on torque values, volumes, parts and procedures. My biggest issue was the handle bar set backs and the front fender removal. I am more spooked about reinstalling the fender than I am with building the forks.My internals didn't turn ! I was thinking that the hex driver would attempt to spin in the hex socket.
I don't think that anyone has posted the link to Michael's excellent fork service post - if you are tempted to go that far.
Article [13] - ST1300 Front Fork Overhaul: An Illustrated Bibliography | ST1300 Articles
Hello All: This past winter, I wanted to overhaul the front forks on my 2012 ST 1300. When I began looking for information about how to do this, I knew nothing about the front forks, they were a complete mystery to me. I started doing research here in our forum and discovered that we have a...www.st-owners.com
John, my hex drivers - aka allen wrenches - all fit into a tight 3/8" drive socket that snaps onto my ratchet, flex drive handle, or square drive adapter for my cordless hammer drill. Each size has it's own base and there is no slop. So far I've not broken any or had any problems with them. I use both Snap-On (high quality brand bought many years ago) and Harbor Fright (real cheap tools made in China).
My wife and I both ride ST1300’s and just got back from a 1740 mile, 9 day ride all around West Virginia. My left fork started leaking about 1/2 way into the trip. Rebuilding both forks today. Waiting for parts to get here. I have to say, these forks were easier than others I’ve done in the past.
