need slightly longer screw

Joined
Oct 16, 2024
Messages
274
Location
Cumming, Georgia USA
Bike
2007 ST-1300
2025 Miles
002840
I'm mounting a switch and a USB charging port on my bike.
I'm going to attach these things to a flat piece of stainless steel which I want to screw down above the clutch master cylinder reservoir,

so I need slightly longer versions of this screw.
So does anybody have any suggestions?

PS does anybody know the exact thread pitch for this factory screw?


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They show 4x12, so I'm guessing M4, 12mm long. An Ace hardware or a Menards would be my recommendation to find a suitable longer replacement locally. :biggrin:
 
I bought a few of these from Ace Hardware, and a couple stainless steel nuts also.
(I will use the nuts as dies to clean up the damaged threads if I have to cut one of these screws to a custom length.)

We will see if they are the right thread pitch.
I'm going to try to install them later tonight.

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I don't have a pitch gauge but when I have a Q about a fastener I take one of the fasteners in question to the hardware store and use their gauge to determine size and pitch.
 
Those are coarse thread, should be correct. No reason for them to be fine thread, that's the standard M4 thread pitch.

I would get allen head bolts if you're fixing things to the reservoir, for one they just look better and secondly you can get a little more torque on them without damaging anything.
 
I have been working on my bike for over two weeks and not ridden it other than pushing it back and forward a couple feet at a time in the garage!
So I wanted to get this done, to ride a couple hours on Friday for a long lunch break and then again Saturday when I go to the Christian Motorcyclists Association breakfast meeting.

I'm glad Ace Hardware had the right screws .70 mm is the right spacing on the threads.
And 16mm length was perfect for my application. No trimming needed.
 
Pics.... give me a few days to see how I like these new switches, because I don't wanna post a pic of a "beta version" -- not if I'm going to come up with a new and improved version soon.
 
I've found most of the hardware I need at one of our local ACE hardware stores, as mentioned before. An alternative would be online order from McMaster-Carr pr Grainger. They both have an impressive selection of all manner of hardware.
 
pics of the flat piece of sheet metal that is now screwed across the top of my clutch fluid cover and extends out to the left side for mounting a switch that is now controlling a completely independent second set of turn signals. (all new wiring, supplemental to the factory wiring harness.)

I'm going to take this sheet metal off and re-bend it within the next few weeks to get the switch in a better position where there's less intrusion of its image in my left side mirror.
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The amber turn signals came in a set of four for only something like $18. I'm only using two of them mounted through the plastic sides of my top box /trunk.

They're not very bright, but they're OK-- acceptable. PS: When they aren't blinking they don't look yellow or amber; they look smoke gray in color when the power is off.

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I was going to suggest the 9 times tables, but I thought it rather too frivolous.

But - how about using the space behind the speaker grill. The switch could be mounted on the plate, secured to the grill. And well out of the way from anything.
Depending on your reach, that might be a good place.

On my 1100 I had row of Sub minature microswitches - equipped with the waterproof switch cover. Can't remember what they were for now.

Found a photo : 2 heated jackets, heated seat, Extra rear fog light - I think.


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Yes - they were sub miniature double pole single throw, so the two 'input' poles were connected together for the power source. One output pole connected to the device, then to earth wire. One pole connected to the LED and then to a common earth. So I could tell whether the power was getting to the switch at least.

But remembering what each switch did what ?
 
On the Versys, I found a double pole, small enough to fit in the right switch gear housing. It activates the cruise control and the +/- speed adjustments.

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John
 
I assume that you find that the stock turn signals are ineffective at indicating your intentions, thus the reason for adding secondary turn signals. You would not be the first to have this complaint if that is the motivation. In the past I mused about adding lights to the outer edges of the panniers but never bothered. More visible light is rarely a bad thing so good on you for putting the effort in to improve your visibility.

I still regularly ponder adding extra lighting for various reasons. Because of that I am curious to know, based on the location and the fact that they have much less surface area than the stock ones, and your statement that they are not very bright, if they turned out to be much more noticeable than the stock ones to someone who is following behind. The larger surface area of the stock ones gives them a big advantage if they have a good light source in them.

Just a thought that occurred to me as I noticed that your stock turn signals have LED bulbs in them. I know that this motorcycle is relatively new to you so if you received it with theses LED bulbs already installed it might be worth having a look to see what is in there. I mention it only because I have seen all kinds of bulbs, LED and otherwise, installed by people in various locations attempting to improve the light output. The replacement bulb may have a higher output rating and it may actually appear brighter when it is viewed from a relatively close distance in their garage. On the road it often has the opposite effect when it is viewed from a distance and from the direction that it was designed to be viewed from and it is actually less noticeable. If you have read any of the headlamp retrofit bulb threads, LED and otherwise, you are well aware that the bulb with the highest lumen rating does not always produce the brightest or best light output.
 
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