The volt meter i used is directly wired to the alternator so u get a clean sign in volts
I put mine peeking through the "slot" ...............
What meter did you use?
It took me awhile to find the link to this , what I bought back in Feb.:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ......( may have to wait until back in stock for yellow )
There're probably a lot of versions like that but do you have a link for that one?J. Hawkins said:That is a great addition. Here's a simple one (if you have a power outlet in sight).
Nice neat job. looks like it grew there!
I have used the Add On digital voltmeter before
and it's a nice product that provides for a
clean installation.
I purchased this at www.cyclemaxohio.com for under $30 shipped.
Here are some pics of the meter, it measures 1 1⁄4" X 7/8":
Step 1
Decide location - I wanted to put my meter below the left side
fairing pocket. Step 2
Remove Parts - for the location I chose, you will need to:
- Remove seats
- Remove left side saddlebag
- Remove left side panel
- Loosen and prop up upper gas tank
There isn't much under this part of the fairing but you do want
access to it so you can work and there are some wires nearby
that you don't want to accidentally cut. Step 3
Preparation - I didn't have any masking tape but found some paper
bandage tape which worked just as well. I masked off the area
I intended to install the meter.
I took the backing lock plate that is supplied with the meter as a
template. Then used a pencil to trace the inner cutout of the
plate. This will actually be smaller than the opening you need but
that's a good thing as you don't want to cut a hole too big.
Step 4
Cutting - I used a Dremel with a cutting disk and simply cut the
4 sides of the pencil marked rectangle. Remember, it's better to
cut a smaller hole that you can trim than a bigger one you can't
After you cut the hole, keep testing the fitment of the meter and
trimming a little more with a knife. If you do it this way you won't
need the backing plate that came with the meter, it will be snug
enough on it's own.
Step 5
Connection - I ran some wires from the OEM fuse box location then
under the gas tank and under the left side frame and up through
the hole. I bent a couple electrical connectors, crimped them and
then connected them to the voltmeter.
As I said above, I cut the hole very close and the meter has to be
pushed into it with just enough force that there is no need to use
the backing plate that comes with the meter.
My power is coming from a tap into the switched power from the
back of the fuse box. The ground I ran to a tap of a wire which
was already coming from the negative side of the battery.
Step 6
Put everything back together - Once you have everything connected
you've probably already tried the meter by turning on the key.
Reading during idle:
Reading during idle w/PIAA 910s and high beams on:
You're Done!
Evaluation:
Others have commented this meter is not the most accurate meter
however, it is not far off. My main reason for getting it, other than
the cool look, is to see when typical readings change
providing me a warning that I may have electrical issues.