Article [13] ST1300 - Air Filter Replacement (How-To)

Re: Air Filter Replacement (How-To)

As a follow up to the previous post. I have noticed that my fuel consumption has gone up after I put in the new OEM air filter. The previous filter was also OEM. Any thoughts.
 
I need a clear tutorial on how to disconnect the sensor. Got the K&N filter out without disconnecting, cleaned and will reinstall tomorrow. Honestly though, every time I see the simple instruction to disconnect this or that when doing maintenance and whatever, I have a little shudder. There seems to be no consistent logic for the different types of connectors to disconnect. My pet peeve... or maybe I get a little more dense in my, ahem, older age. I can't remember a year and a half back. I can barely remember last week!
 
Re: Air Filter Replacement (How-To)

etalors said:
I just did an air filter replacement. One of the tank bolts was not screwing in as easy. So I had to use a socket/extension to screw it in. The other one I was able to screw in by hand and then tighten with socket. As far as I could tell the holes were lined up pretty good. Anyone see a problem with this. Should I unscrew and try tightening again? Also, I did not have any grease, so I applied a very thin coating of motor oil before seating the filter. Any concerns here. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I have a concern....the steel bolts are screwed into the aluminum FRAME. One should never force them, by using a bigger tool. Sounds like you may have cross threaded, or damaged the threads putting the difficult one in.
May I suggest you remove them, and run a thread chaser into the holes to clean up any damage that may have happened.
In the future, I would also suggest that you REMOVE the rear tank bolt completely, before trying to replace the front bolts. This will allow you to move the tank around a little bit (if needed) to replace the screws in my hand before you attempt to tighten them.
I would also suggest that you turn the screws counter clockwise until you feel/hear them drop into place.
since the rear tank bolt simply goes through a tube, its much easier to replace without causing damage to anything.
 
Last edited:
Kevin Tate said:
As I didn't already see a how-to post for changing the air filter on ST1300s, I thought I'd post some pics. It's a pretty straightforward process that should take ~60 minutes, start to finish–especially if you've never done it before. Note: Perform these steps on a near-empty tank.

Step 1) Remove seats and the two 8mm bolts toward front of tank.
Step 2) Loosen the 10mm bolt and nut in the image below. They are located in front of the seat-height adjuster. This will allow you to slide back the tank an inch or two so that it clears the bar risers in the next step - make sure to push the seat-height adjuster towards the rearmost slot called the maintenance slot.
View attachment 156784
Step 3) After sliding tank back, gently lift the front of it being careful not to scratch/ding it against the bar risers. I used a bungee cord to hold the tank in a lifted position. (See image below.) You can also temporarily remove the retaining cable to get more clearance.
rev_bungee.jpg
Step 4) Remove the nine Phillips screws holding the box cover on. Note: As others have suggested, it's probably best NOT to remove the two front screws. Doing so could risk dropping them into a hard-to-reach area. Also, there's a small wiring harness that's easy to disconnect, which will allow you to completely remove the box cover. I did this so I could wipe clean the underside of the cover.
rev_box.cover1.jpg
Step 5) With the box cover removed, you can remove any visible debris and wipe clean any oil residue. I used the home vacuum cleaner with crevice wand to remove remnants of a dead bug.
rev_box.open1.jpg
Step 6) Proceed to swap the air filter then reassemble.
rev_filter.both.jpg

As you can tell, I used a replacement from Emgo (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Y363Y2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and did not use any type of grease to help seat the filter. (Others may suggest differently.)

Hope this helped.
Click to expand...

Thanks for making an article to help others. May I offer a couple suggestions? First off, I would NOT remove the retaining cable, as its there for a reason (to keep from damaging the fuel joint tube).
Even though you mentioned to make sure your seat bracket is in the service position (your photo did not show this) and if someone simply looked at your pictures, they may have missed this step.
Lastly, there are NO phillips screws anywhere on your bike, all the fasteners are JIS (search forum for explanation) I would suggest investing in a set if you want to continue servicing your bike.
 
Oh yeah, I almost forgot to ask....why haven't you visited OCD enterprises for your inspection? :rofl1:
 
Re: Air Filter Replacement (How-To)

Igofar said:
In the future, I would also suggest that you REMOVE the rear tank bolt completely, before trying to replace the front bolts.
Click to expand...

May I suggest trying to first lift the front of the tank up just enough to start the front 2 bolts before the process of removing the rear bolt. I have found that the bolts start real easy this way without having to remove the rear bolt then having to reinstall it. The method of turning them CCW to "feel" the start of the threads engage is very helpful.
In the case of using the "bigger Hammer" to get fasteners to turn, is not good when dealing with aluminum.
 
Re: Air Filter Replacement (How-To)

Thanks for your input comrade. If you decide to move now that you have retired, try moving a little east to the midwest area (LOL). We'll keep ya busyyyy.
 
Whenever I'm replacing the two bolts up front it appears that one bolt lines up and the other one - no way. It's at least half the hole out of alignment. I'd struggle with it in the past until I discovered the tip Kevin_56 posted. The 8 mm bolts are easily twice as long as necessary to secure the tank. If you lift the front of the tank about 1/2" off the rubber grommets both of the holes line up perfectly and there is more than enough bolt length to start them.
 
Last edited:
just to clarify, I am not suggesting to remove the rear tank bolt when "lifting" the tank up (for whatever reason), I am only suggesting to remove the rear bolt to allow enough wiggle room to simply replace the tank bolts in the front without risking cross threading them. I have had to repair threads in several ST's over the years from folks who simply tried to lift the tank, or force the bolts, causing damage.
By removing the rear bolt, you are not lifting, bending, folding, nor moving the hose from side to side, you are merely taking pressure off of it.
:rolleyes:
 
Igofar said:
I am only suggesting to remove the rear bolt to allow enough wiggle room to simply replace the tank bolts in the front without risking cross threading them
Click to expand...

I and Dave are just saying that you do not have to remove said bolt when trying to replace the front bolts. Just lift the front of the tank after wiggling it forward to the normal position. This allows you to start the two bolts, then set the tank down on the front rubber cushions and finish tightening the 8mm bolts.

Not that removing the long bolt does not work, just a step not needed in my findings of lifting the front before starting the 2 bolts.

Just to add more discussion, after several times under the tank, I no longer even tighten the long bolt. I leave it loose enough to facilitate the front to back movement needed to lift the tank. Once the front bolts are put in, the rear of the tank is going no where. Call it beating the shop rate, but one less item to deal with. OK, lazy, if you want to get technical.
 
...I and Dave? Shouldn't it be "Dave and I"? :rolleyes:
I understand that you guys are able to lift the tank a little bit, and align the holes enough to start the bolts, (you've probably been doing it for a long time),however, for a new person just doing it for the first time, I often hear the "I tried to lift it to line up the holes and dropped the collar down into the Vee" :rofl1:
As far as leaving the rear bolt loose, we'll you and I see things differently on that point, as I don't cut corners, nor am I lazy enough to leave something loose for the next time etc. Really, how much time do you save with (1) nut/bolt?
It may not be a concern, but I wonder if the rear end being loose enough to shake or rattle around "just a little" would be enough to cause any stress or damage on the threads in the aluminum frame from the steel bolts ?
If it was your bike, that would be one thing, but I would never leave ANY fastener loose on another person's bike. OCD just does not roll like that.
 
Last edited:
Quick question.

Just doing the air filter replacement my bike 2007 ST1300A and noticed the two front screws are missing. The filter was last serviced by Honda so, I assume they got lazy. Anyway, is there a local part/screw that I might use in place of these two screws?

I saw the part about JIS and figured I'd ask anyway.

Thanks.
 
jfheilman said:
I saw the part about JIS and figured I'd ask anyway.
Click to expand...

I think the JIS applies only to the head and not the thread. So if you took the screw to a hardware store that carries metric STuff you might be able to match it.

A JIS screwdriver might fit the Phillips head just fine (other way 'round not so much) especially if the screws aren't over torqued. But a JIS driver is a wise and minor investment with solid ROI.
 
Thanks ST Gui. If I get the JIS Screwdriver I will have to mark it as such :)

Heck I might have one and not remember where I put it.
 
jfheilman said:
. If I get the JIS Screwdriver I will have to mark it as such
Click to expand...

Get something like this and you may not have to mark it at all. Just remember that it's the first screwdriver you reach for when working on your ST. This might be the second.

There are of course many options in JIS kit but these two work for me.


jfheilman said:
Heck I might have one and not remember where I put it.
Click to expand...

BTDT more times than I'll ever admit to.
 
Thanks Kevin
it was my 1st air filter change and went without issues , the instructions and pictures were a great help . I magnetized my philips screw driver to make sure i did not loose any while taken them out from the air filter cover .
Thanks again
John from Montreal
 
ST Gui said:
I think the JIS applies only to the head and not the thread. So if you took the screw to a hardware store that carries metric STuff you might be able to match it.

A JIS screwdriver might fit the Phillips head just fine (other way 'round not so much) especially if the screws aren't over torqued. But a JIS driver is a wise and minor investment with solid ROI.
Click to expand...

Robert is quite correct: the Japan Industrial Standard (JIS) designation refers to the screw head - not the threads. They are simply ISO (International Standards Organization) metric threads.

Pete
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom