Article [13] ST1300 - Air Filter Replacement
- Thread starter PopJack
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TMUS
MSF Instructor 32 years
HA-1302. I got mine from a local NAPA dealer, had to wait a day, but no ship charges and same price as on the net.
Re: ST1300-Changing the Air Filter
PopJack,
Awesome instructions! did this last night quick and smooth thanks to this post! thanks you, thank you, thank you!
PopJack,
Awesome instructions! did this last night quick and smooth thanks to this post! thanks you, thank you, thank you!
This, too, has been MY experience...hard to keep the front wheel planted in either 1st or 2nd gear, with or without my wife on the back. The K & N, coupled with Two Bros Racing slip-ons, has transformed my '06 into a beast (a loveable beast, at that!). I've got 10k + miles on this combo with NO complaints...
Couple of questions for clarity: 1. removed 6 screws from the airbox, are there more? Can't seem to pull up the cover. 2. how to remove the sensor, with the tank in the up position it is difficult to see.
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I have taken off my airbox cover a few times and mention a couple things. One, I never disconnect the air sensor unless removing the entire airbox to get to the throttle bodies. The airbox cover can lift up or to the side to replace the filter and clean the box out with the sensor still connected. No sense in possibly breaking a tab off of it. The other thing is I use a magnetic tip screwdriver to remove the screws. If you don't have one you can rub a magnet on your screwdriver tip to temporarily magnetize it.
OP
OP
PopJack
Die young, after a long life.
NOGILLS:
Hopefully by now you have changed your filter. If I recall, there are eight screws- if you missed some they are probably the ones on the very front in the notches or the ones along the back edge.
Removing the sensor plus (Not the sensor itself) is very easy- its a simple tab that isn't very tight. As noted, you can do the job without unplugging it at all, I just unplug it to make things easier to get to. If you are having problems, PM or Email me and I will see if I can help.
Jack
Hopefully by now you have changed your filter. If I recall, there are eight screws- if you missed some they are probably the ones on the very front in the notches or the ones along the back edge.
Removing the sensor plus (Not the sensor itself) is very easy- its a simple tab that isn't very tight. As noted, you can do the job without unplugging it at all, I just unplug it to make things easier to get to. If you are having problems, PM or Email me and I will see if I can help.
Jack
Thanks for sharing. You made it much easier than the manual. Replaced my OEM filter at 12K and glad I did as there was telltale signs of dirt. Will go with a K&N next time. Let me know if the K&N cured your bald spot in addition to enhancing performance?
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Hi everybody!!!!... Can you tell me about different type of brands filters and number for any equivalent for the air filter of an ST 1300?... I see in other post the KNN HA-1302 number... but there are the same filter in other brands?
Thanks to all...
From Tequila land... Jorge
Thanks to all...
From Tequila land... Jorge
Hey, PopJack! MANY THANKS for the excellent summary & pics on the filter change - did mine last week and your instructions made it very easy.
I also really appreciate the tip on the magnetic screwdriver - essential! I still lost a couple of screws (one during removal and another during installation!
) down into the body of the bike because the strength of the magnetic field of my screwdriver was VERY WEAK! A tip on this - take a strong magnet and rub it a few times on the shaft of the screwdriver to strengthen the magnetic field - may make the difference for you like it did for me.
IF (or should I say WHEN?) you lose a screw down into the body of the bike below the filter housing, you may be able to retrieve it like I did with a $9 flexible magnet from Harbor Freight - what a lifesaver (pic below)! Took a little persuading to get the magnet below the rim of the filter housing, but I was able to retrieve the lost screws!
I wanted to respond to the question of what type of filter. I had actually ordered an OEM filter online (~$35+ shipping) with the initial thought that I would replace whatever was already in the bike, because I didn't know how long it had been there - would rather know for sure. So I start releasing the tank as described and get it past the handlebar risers (not without a little finesse due to handlebar attachments the previous owner had put on!) and then I see this nice pretty K&N sticker on the filter housing!! AAArrrggh! Now what will I do with this new OEM filter that I ordered?!?!?! I hate paying return shipping on a "low-cost" item, so I'm going to try to work a deal with the Honda dealership that is replacing my front fork seals and doing a "bow to stern" inspection. I'm also ordering a couple of dealer-only parts, so I'm hoping they'll work with me and take this filter off my hands.
Anyhow - all this to say that I've been running a K&N filter all along, without know it, and while I don't have any "non K&N" air filter experience to compare, my bike is running great now that I have new plugs and fresh gas! I did the recommended filter washout and re-oiling, and as I start riding more, I will track my mileage and see how it's going.
When I pulled my K&N out, the inside of the filter had some gunk in it - to be expected - that washed out very well with the recommended solvent and light application of forced air from my compressor (held the nozzle about 8-10" away, using 75psi). BTW - if you've never done a K&N filter refresh before - a word of advice - do it outside if at all possible!! If you have any overspray of the solvent, it will hang in your garage for 2-3 days!
I also think this whole discussion of air filters is missing some very important information that I believe could have an effect on the response of the bike to the filter - things like altitude, ambient/average temperatures, other riding conditions (dirt roads vs pavement), commute miles in a big city with stop/go traffic vs open road miles, etc. All these things will have an impact on mileage and bike/filter performance in a variety of ways such as air/fuel mixture, dirt/exhaust from other vehicles which affects O2 content/etc in the ambient air, and the list goes on. I think a lot will boil down to personal experience and preference in your riding environment, as well as taking good care of your machine. Find a product you like, put it in, then get out & ride - that's where the fun is!
Happy riding now that we have Spring and Summer upon us!
I also really appreciate the tip on the magnetic screwdriver - essential! I still lost a couple of screws (one during removal and another during installation!
) down into the body of the bike because the strength of the magnetic field of my screwdriver was VERY WEAK! A tip on this - take a strong magnet and rub it a few times on the shaft of the screwdriver to strengthen the magnetic field - may make the difference for you like it did for me.IF (or should I say WHEN?) you lose a screw down into the body of the bike below the filter housing, you may be able to retrieve it like I did with a $9 flexible magnet from Harbor Freight - what a lifesaver (pic below)! Took a little persuading to get the magnet below the rim of the filter housing, but I was able to retrieve the lost screws!
I wanted to respond to the question of what type of filter. I had actually ordered an OEM filter online (~$35+ shipping) with the initial thought that I would replace whatever was already in the bike, because I didn't know how long it had been there - would rather know for sure. So I start releasing the tank as described and get it past the handlebar risers (not without a little finesse due to handlebar attachments the previous owner had put on!) and then I see this nice pretty K&N sticker on the filter housing!! AAArrrggh! Now what will I do with this new OEM filter that I ordered?!?!?! I hate paying return shipping on a "low-cost" item, so I'm going to try to work a deal with the Honda dealership that is replacing my front fork seals and doing a "bow to stern" inspection. I'm also ordering a couple of dealer-only parts, so I'm hoping they'll work with me and take this filter off my hands.
Anyhow - all this to say that I've been running a K&N filter all along, without know it, and while I don't have any "non K&N" air filter experience to compare, my bike is running great now that I have new plugs and fresh gas! I did the recommended filter washout and re-oiling, and as I start riding more, I will track my mileage and see how it's going.
When I pulled my K&N out, the inside of the filter had some gunk in it - to be expected - that washed out very well with the recommended solvent and light application of forced air from my compressor (held the nozzle about 8-10" away, using 75psi). BTW - if you've never done a K&N filter refresh before - a word of advice - do it outside if at all possible!! If you have any overspray of the solvent, it will hang in your garage for 2-3 days!
I also think this whole discussion of air filters is missing some very important information that I believe could have an effect on the response of the bike to the filter - things like altitude, ambient/average temperatures, other riding conditions (dirt roads vs pavement), commute miles in a big city with stop/go traffic vs open road miles, etc. All these things will have an impact on mileage and bike/filter performance in a variety of ways such as air/fuel mixture, dirt/exhaust from other vehicles which affects O2 content/etc in the ambient air, and the list goes on. I think a lot will boil down to personal experience and preference in your riding environment, as well as taking good care of your machine. Find a product you like, put it in, then get out & ride - that's where the fun is!
Happy riding now that we have Spring and Summer upon us!
