Swingarm and final drive, paint or powder?

[Smdts]

Just bought a 2004 st1300a with 44k.
Its mechanically sound with no known issues, it rides great, it is the comfiest machine i have ever experienced and it is instantly obvious why people fall in love with these. Being used in Scottish weather and road salt all year round has it looking a bit rough, but i intend to keep this for a long time so I dont mind investing some time money and effort to gradually improve it.
Ordered a service kit, gear indicator, stainless bolt kit, bigger screen, and the paint is already being transformed with a machine polish and ceramic coat a panel at a time as i find time, having too much fun riding it.

Going to powdercoat the wheels and handlebar risers, was thinking of powdercoating the swingarm and final drive, but was warned the heat of baking the powder might do some damage to the aluminium and seals and bearings, would silver wheel paint be a more advisable job?
Also my rubber brake lines are good, not showing any cracks, butthe end fittings and banjos are a bit rusty. Brushed on zinc paint, or any other advice?
Going to attack this bike a chunk at a time until it is as nice as I can possibly get it

 

[SMSW]

It has been my understanding that all bearings and oil seals should be removed before powder coating - for exactly the reasons you mentioned. Guys in the UK have mentioned corroding swingarms due to road salt. I'm not sure if there are weep holes in that piece that would allow road salt access to the inside, if so, powder coating, or any finish on the outside would only do so much.

The final drive is a different animal. The internal gear and pinion are shimmed and you would have to go through that process if you were to take it apart. There are more durable epoxy paints as well as a product called Paint over Rust (aka POR). I used it once on a rusting van I had...it did not work for me, probably because the rust was too advanced.

 

[jfheath]

I looked into having wheels powder coated. I did a bit of research concerning the temperature for baking the powder and the temperatur at which some alloys (similar tot he wheels) start changing their structure. They were too close for comfort. Of course, I do not know the structure of the wheels so my research is rather dubious - I know that. But I hate to put niggles into my head.
The crimp on my banjo bolts is rusted lightly. I keep painting them with ACF50 - let it soak in and wipe off the surplus - to stop it getting any worse. But I'm just looking at the Hel lines (again) - they have a 15 line kit for the ST1300 - which was installed by @billo on this forum with excellent detailed images. Worth reading. If you have bar risers, you may need the line to the brake lever extending a bit. The website allows for that.

HEL brake lines - USA models install complications? (answered - check your brake hoses fiche vs Pan) | ST1300-Brakes

HEL lists a (non abs) line kit for up to 2006 Pan European. The 2007 Pan and 2007 ST1300 (US) use the same part numbers as the 2006 Pan according to parts diagrams. Is there a difference in standard brakes from 2006 to 2007? Pan to US? HEL response - “US 2007 not listed, send us your lines...

www.st-owners.com

Corroding Swing Arms - is a problem for the ST1100 models. I haven't noticed it with the ST1300. (Current one 12 years old 72,000 miles) - but it doesn't often go out in winter now that I now do not have to commute. I used to take the swin arm off my 1100 every couple of years, take it back to the metal and cotaed it with Hammerite. It protected it well, but it gets chipped off by the road muck sand-blasting it. I also drilled small holes and rinsed the inside with oil, let it drain and plugged the holes. I've never had the 1300 swing arm off.