ON the subject of batteries. Just this weekend my bike wouldn't crank after leaving the ignition/headlights on for about 5-10 minute while talking to someone. Got it home and fully charged with battery tender (no warning lights on the tender). Started right up as normal. I tested it again by leaving lights on for 10 minutes and ..... no crank. Charged back up and good to go. I don't know how much current the ignition/lights would draw. Do you think this is normal or do I have a bad cell? thanks.
The best battery for your ST
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STFlips
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I would suspect the battery. I basically have the same issue, charged battery to something like 12.7 volts this year and it drops like a stone when you hit the start button. Last season it was OK but would need a boost/charge if it sat for 2 weeks. Don't know how old the battery is so new one was ordered last week.
I can use my compressor to top off the tires with the key/lights on, engine switch off, and still start with no problem.
My ST sits under cover outdoors, no charger or tender, and starts up every spring as if it was ridden the day before.
My ST sits under cover outdoors, no charger or tender, and starts up every spring as if it was ridden the day before.
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That is exactly what mine did. I had ridden the bike for two full hours at 60+ mph and then left the lights on for about 5-10 minutes and it was dead as a doornail. Consequently, it started very easily with just a walking pace push from my buddies and a clutch drop in 2nd gear.
This leads me to I conclude that:
- the ST1300 is a very efficient and reliable bike with good ignition & EFI systems and an effective starter - so it doesn't need to crank very much to light-off;
- the battery does not have much extra capacity - so if it is below a certain threshold, you are NOT going to go without a boost or a push;
- the margin between an easy start and a definite no-start is very very small indeed.
ST Gui
240Robert
Which ST do you have? The 1100 has a little bigger battery than the 1300. So yes it's normal if you have a 1300. I've run into that a couple of times – 10min and it's time for a bump start or downhill roll.
Now that I'm all LED'ed (except for the position lights) I can probably go as long as 12min before bumpin' up!
Isn't that an oxymoron ??
ST Gui
240Robert
Oh and... Don't do that.
I was introduced to the short reserve of the 1300's battery while wiring up some side markers to replace the rear reflectors. On/Off... On/Off... Wiring check... On/Off... On/Off... Then some admiration time... On/Off... All of 10min IGN On throughout the process.
Next morning heading out for work part way down a decline driveway it wouldn't start. At that moment there was no charger or tender available so the only option was to roll it down a steep hill to a valley between two steep hills. I really hoped it would start. It did.
2005 ST 1300. Thanks for the insight
Thanks for this thread. The battery for my 2006 ST1300 is dead/dead so I was in the market. The closest Honda et al. dealership is 42 miles away, but I happened to be nearby so I stopped in. They had a battery but they wanted $226.00 for it. I didn't buy it!
So thank you for other options.
So thank you for other options.
Yuasa YUAM72Z14 YTZ14S Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024VFY86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_82PCX031Y6F28JRKACNH
I went through a couple of cheapies. Should have bought the Yuasa initially.
I went through a couple of cheapies. Should have bought the Yuasa initially.
I tend to ride all year. Will I need to find a battery with more CCA for a ST1300? I know my CTX700 wouldn't start under 30° F without a jump while my NT700 started in temps down to 17°F with no problem.
Seems like my Yuasa is going back for my 07 1300, it’s lasted a few years, long enough to lose track, but anyway—-
Has anyone tried one of these? Mighty Max Battery YTZ14S 230CCA Gel Battery for Honda ST1300 ABS (2003-2012). For $44!! On Amazon.
Pumper
Speaking about batteries. I too called Yuasa and asked how long a dry battery's shelf life is, and he said no problem, wet it. He then proceeded to tell me about taking the competition's batteries and charge them a certain way. Nothing special, but they first let the acid soak for a least an hour. then fully charge the batteries. Place a load on them and run them down to about a volt and then recharge it. Done a third time and now it's ready for service.
He continued to tell me how to charge it. In other words, yes, you can throw a car amp charger at it, but be careful about it getting too hot. So basically I took the plunge and got 9 years out of another brand battery. The shelf life battery hardly had a charge on it and I let it sit till I sold it 6 years later. Still light right off when the new buyer came to see it.
My procedure was to buy the right battery charger. So if the battery is a 12N14a, you move the decimal point over one to the right, and you now need at least a 1.4a rated battery charger, charged for literally 14 hours. That's the formula. I then took both a high beam and a brake light bulb and let it slowly die out to 1 or 2v and recharged it; repeated 2 more times, and then put in the bike. Dielectric greased everything.
This time I just wet and charged. The triple charge always read 12.7-128v static. This one reads 12.4v static. I guess I learned my lesson.
He continued to tell me how to charge it. In other words, yes, you can throw a car amp charger at it, but be careful about it getting too hot. So basically I took the plunge and got 9 years out of another brand battery. The shelf life battery hardly had a charge on it and I let it sit till I sold it 6 years later. Still light right off when the new buyer came to see it.
My procedure was to buy the right battery charger. So if the battery is a 12N14a, you move the decimal point over one to the right, and you now need at least a 1.4a rated battery charger, charged for literally 14 hours. That's the formula. I then took both a high beam and a brake light bulb and let it slowly die out to 1 or 2v and recharged it; repeated 2 more times, and then put in the bike. Dielectric greased everything.
This time I just wet and charged. The triple charge always read 12.7-128v static. This one reads 12.4v static. I guess I learned my lesson.
increasing
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Battery for ST1100AX maintenance-free or acid-filled battery …
AGM
Both are lead acid. Flooded will vent and require that you check and maintain the electrolyte level by adding distilled water. These have to be installed with the caps up or you will spill the acid. They also will flow more current (lower internal resistance) than AGM and cost less. AGM are more expensive, maintenance free, sealed and may be installed in any position (did I read P bikes require the battery to be on its side?). AGMs flow less current than comparable flooded batteries but are more than sufficient for your bike or car. I've read that AGM batteries do not like the anti sulfation cycle older smart chargers/maintainers have. Ideally, you should use a charger/maintainer that specifically says it is for AGM batteries. Both will give good service.
Read batteryuniversity.com and also practical-sailer.com. Both have lots of information about batteries.
Read batteryuniversity.com and also practical-sailer.com. Both have lots of information about batteries.
The AGM from Walmart in my '01 will be eight years old in August.
ST Gui
240Robert
I don't know anything about that battery and didn't search Amazon for it. I'm guessing that it's probably AGM and not a gel battery. If it's a gel battery it needs a charger designed to charge gel batteries. With that in mind I have no idea if it will work with a vehicle's alternator circuit. Me I'd stick with an AGM battery unless I was to consider LiPo-Fe or similar.