Things to Check on ST1300 for FI Light Code 26

[MidLife]

I rode the bike to Ga-STOC last week and the FI light is back (code 26). I confirmed that my connection is still good and it's throwing the same code, so I have to conclude it's the ECM. I'll be on the lookout for a good used one if I can find one. There were no noticeable issues with riding the bike with the light on other than marginally reduced fuel economy. I'm disappointed, but it won't strand you so that's a plus.

Larry reported seeing more Codes on bikes loaded with electrical accessories. How is yours on this front?

And some on the GL side seem to believe a noisy ground on the Knock Sensor Loop could be affecting the ECM on the GL and trigger their Knock Sensor Code, could be same for the ST. So cleaning/fastening grounds might help. They also suggest running a dedicated ground for this loop, but I have no idea how their scheme would translate to the ST.

Reading Dark Sun on the GL side, it sounds like a failed ECM is a failed ECM. But if it is only just about to fail, its life could be extended by cleaning and regrounding.

On a side note, a local shop I deal with just procured a ST ECM for a client, directly from somewhere in Japan, but keeping details for themselves.....Sounds like there may still be some available out there if you are lucky.

 

[RobbieAG]

Larry reported seeing more Codes on bikes loaded with electrical accessories. How is yours on this front?

I have a power block under the seat and the quartet harness up front. Connected are heated grips, GPS connection and 12V connector up front. To the power block I have a heated gear connector and hyper lites connected. These have all been on the bike for years and never caused a problem. More recently I added TPMS, but this is wireless. I don't suppose that could cause a problem but it would be easy enough to remove to make sure.

 

[MidLife]

........ but it would be easy enough to remove to make sure.

From what I gathered out of the GL posts linked to by Mellow, it is not an "on/off" situation.

More like the "dirtier (noisier)" the ground is (the more devices are going back to it), the faster the chip that talks/listens to the Knock Sensor in the ECM might give up.

Based on Larry's observations, it seems that loaded bikes are the ones more likely to get 26-ed first, possibly confirming the above.

He's been able to save some, by "cleaning" them up. But will only work if the ECM is not completely toast already.

 

[Larry Fine]

Also remember that the more load you place on a ground wire, the more that voltage drop will lift it away from zero volts, just like it causes voltage to sag below +12v on a hot wire.

And, just as with a shared hot wire, a single ground wire shared among several loads will cause the effect to affect all of the loads, even if only one is causing most of the voltage drop.

 

[MidLife]

.......the more load you place on a ground wire, the more that voltage drop will lift it away from zero volts, .......

That's why the GL guy recommends the Knock Loop be on a dedicated "cleaner" ground.

The knock sensing loop could probably be floated....but I wouldn't know where to start on that.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I have a power block under the seat and the quartet harness up front. Connected are heated grips, GPS connection and 12V connector up front. To the power block I have a heated gear connector and hyper lites connected. These have all been on the bike for years and never caused a problem. More recently I added TPMS, but this is wireless. I don't suppose that could cause a problem but it would be easy enough to remove to make sure.

Robbie - This makes my head hurt for you - problems that have 'intermittent' causes can drive a feller crazy after a while!

 

[Chris09]

On the topic of find the cause of the problem instead of throwing parts at the situation I completely agree, but I can't help but remember getting to the end of my wits [and telephone book sized Honda factory service manual] when I was faced with the prospect of replacing the ECM in my 92 Accord at only 75,000km. After all the testing for an intermittent fault, the manual stated: "Substitute known good one" which at the time was $800.00 I called Honda and asked the parts guy how many of these things fail? He said not very many.
I got lucky after I think the third time removing the horizontally positioned distributor cap and found a small piece of porous metal laying inside. Turned out to be a failing distributor bearing resulting in one of the three rotors making contact with the pick-up coil. It wasn't skill, it wasn't expertise, it wasn't following the manual, it wasn't the process of elimination. That little piece could have just as easily dropped on the ground. Luck I tell you, sometimes you gotta have luck!

 

[RobbieAG]

Robbie - This makes my head hurt for you - problems that have 'intermittent' causes can drive a feller crazy after a while!

I think I'm almost there . I know you've had your share of head scratchers!

 

[Uncle Phil]

I think I'm almost there . I know you've had your share of head scratchers!

You know you are there when your forehead is flattened from banging it against the wall in frustration!

 

[RobbieAG]

Robbie, to eliminate possibilities, can you swap sensors, or the sub-harnesses (if they match)?

I have the plastics off and am trying to swap the sensors to rule that out. I have the connectors off but don't have the right tool to remove the sensors. All of my sockets are not deep enough due to the connector plastic, and there's not that much room to work behind the exhaust pipes. I could get deeper sockets but they might not fit. I have long offset wrenches but not large enough (largest is 22 mm). What tool do you use to remove the sensors? I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle to swap them for the remote possibility one of the sensors is the problem. It would be nice to know for sure.

 

[Igofar]

The correct tool would be a cut away sensor socket designed for removing them, with that said, don’t waste your time swapping them, it won’t fix anything, and you’re just risking damaging stuff.
I’d look for burnt or crispy wire harness and/or connectors.

 

[RobbieAG]

The correct tool would be a cut away sensor socket designed for removing them, with that said, don’t waste your time swapping them, it won’t fix anything, and you’re just risking damaging stuff.
I’d look for burnt or crispy wire harness and/or connectors.

I did have a crispy right side knock sensor connector which I replaced. Unfortunately the problem persists (but only for longer trips and more aggressive riding like STOC events).

 

[Larry Fine]

I did have a crispy right side knock sensor connector which I replaced. Unfortunately the problem persists (but only for longer trips and more aggressive riding like STOC events).

What kind of gas were you running at the time?

I'm asking because I have the 1300 now.

 

[RobbieAG]

What kind of gas were you running at the time?

I always ran premium gas in the hopes of preventing the code 25/26 FI light issue. Now that it comes on, I decided to run regular gas and save money. So far no noticeable difference in performance.

 

[Uncle Phil]

What kind of gas were you running at the time?

I'm asking because I have the 1300 now.

Raymond (Black Pearl's Captain) has run regular in his ST1300 for 100,000s of miles.

 

[wizel]

I only ever fill up with Super Plus octane 98 or, if there's a Shell or Aral filling station nearby, with 102 octane fuel. It contains the least ethanol.
Unfortunately, a liter of gas costs about 2 dollars.
holm from germany

 

[Uncle Phil]

I only ever fill up with Super Plus octane 98 or, if there's a Shell or Aral filling station nearby, with 102 octane fuel. It contains the least ethanol.
Unfortunately, a liter of gas costs about 2 dollars.
holm from germany

That's north of $7.50 a gallon - that sure puts the hurt on riding!
About $50 USD a fillup on a ST ...
Most places over here are little less than half of that.

 

[MotorBikeMike]

My 2005 with just over 100K miles just started showing the F1 code 26. My bike also runs fine and the light only comes on somewhere above 4K on the tach, and not all the time. I've not pulled the plastics yet, when I do, I'll check for damaged wiring first.

 

[ST_Pap_Pap]

The

I have the plastics off and am trying to swap the sensors to rule that out. I have the connectors off but don't have the right tool to remove the sensors. All of my sockets are not deep enough due to the connector plastic, and there's not that much room to work behind the exhaust pipes. I could get deeper sockets but they might not fit. I have long offset wrenches but not large enough (largest is 22 mm). What tool do you use to remove the sensors? I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle to swap them for the remote possibility one of the sensors is the problem. It would be nice to know for sure.

Robbie, this thread is like reading a book and the last chapter is missing! Did you figure this out?

 

[RobbieAG]

Robbie, this thread is like reading a book and the last chapter is missing! Did you figure this out?

Unfortunately no. I still have the FI light coming on issue. It hadn't come on since April when I went to GA-STOC. Then last weekend I went for a ride up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. After about 2 1/2 hours of riding it started coming on again. Yesterday I was on my way up to the Blue Ridge Gathering in Hot Springs NC and the bike died after riding about 150 miles. I think the alternator went (which I'll have to confirm). After waiting for 3 hours in the rain on the side of I-40, I got towed to a safe place. Today I went and trailered it home.