OP
OP
Checking the specs from Racetech they noted that 8mm preload was applied to the new spring.
Trying to decide between Racetech 1200 or 1300 spring
- Thread starter roadriderg
- Start date
Now you are talking, does that make sense now? 11 makes sense as your spring is quite a bit stiffer than stock but not so stiff as to create excessive free sag.
Since I am between 150 and 155 lbs in street clothes, ride solo 99.9% of the time, and carry less than 40-60 lbs of cargo very rarely, my free sag numbers of 7 - 8 mm indicated the OEM spring rate was in the ball park for me so when I had the RaceTech overhaul of my shock I elected to keep the stock spring. If you are heavier or ride two up it would not be adequate.
mlheck
Site Supporter
I do tend to ride 2 up and that is where I really needed more spring. When taking a trip I am looking at about 20lbs. of luggage and a combined rider weight of about 315lbs. The bike really wallowed around with the old spring. It rides much better now.
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OP
OP
Did a long weekend ride with Ann on the back. The ride was much better that before. We were loaded with the two of us and a trailer. I usually empty all bags and put everything in the trailer. The two of us about 340 + 35 lbs hitch weight came to about 375. I did have to crank the preload to the max. I still had a smooth ride.
Hi guys!
I'm an inactive user for some time now but, have finally gotten around to installing a 23.2kg/mm Race Tech rear shock spring and am wondering about the inch shorter RT spring and which end of the shock I should put the new collar on?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm an inactive user for some time now but, have finally gotten around to installing a 23.2kg/mm Race Tech rear shock spring and am wondering about the inch shorter RT spring and which end of the shock I should put the new collar on?
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
can't help you with the spring questions, but you should start a new thread with a title that describes your specific questions to get better response.
Yeah, I thought about that after I posted. Thanks for the tip.....
mlheck
Site Supporter
So I have to run out the door in a second and can't read and digest all these comments right now: I am 275 pounds, and my girlfriend is about 135. We mostly ride two-up, with the bags and trunk loaded. Spring suggestions, anyone? What does RT charge for the spring swap?
I'm just a tad lighter at 230, my girl is 125. Put the Penske 1300# spring on the back and I'm very happy. Racetech did not impress me.
Not sure what the cost is, had some great ST buddies help me put it on. Thank you Gary!!
PS When I did buy it they suggested I send the shock in and have them re-build it, they would re-valve it too for the new spring. I passed, but maybe sometime in the future I will.
Just got off the phone with Penske. They said the stock shock spring is +/- 1000#, and said for me (275lb) and my girlfriend (135lb) they would recommend a #1400 or #1600 spring. Technically, I'd be overwhelming the #1400 spring 2-up, so they said really, the #1600 spring would be their recomendation for 2-up riding. The bigger issue is the stock shock isn't valved correctly for a stiffer spring, and that it may cause other issues. Humm.......
Of course they tell you that... they are trying to make money.
Seriously, I'm fine on my stock shock and increased spring. Could a re-valve and re-build help, probably. Will it cause problems?? Don't really think so.
Of course they tell you that... they are trying to make money.
Seriously, I'm fine on my stock shock and increased spring. Could a re-valve and re-build help, probably. Will it cause problems?? Don't really think so.
That's kind of what I'm thinking too. My days of doing trackdays are long gone. This is just a sports touring bike, one that's terribly undersprung with me and the GF on it. All the suspension companies tell you that the valving adjustments on the OEM parts don't do much anyway, so perhaps the OEM shocks wouldn't have much "input" from a valving perspective with the replacement of the old spring with a new one. One way to find out, I suppose. The bigger question now becomes what spring rate? I've never heard anywhere on here about anyone doing more than a 1300# or maybe a 1400#. But they (Penske) are suggesting at least a 1400# and maybe a 1600# for my application?
According to Racetech, the stock spring is a 17kg/mm,which would equal about 950#
The stiffest spring they sell is the one they recommend, 25kg/mm, or in other words, about #1400
Penske says (for me) at least a #1400, but for 2-up riding, more like a #1600
700 lb/in = 12.5 kg/mm
650 lb/in = 11.6 kg/mm
600 lb/in = 10.7 kg/mm
550 lb/in = 9.8 kg/mm
500 lb/in = 8.9 kg/mm
450 lb/in = 8 kg/mm
400 lb/in = 7.1 kg/mm
350 lb/in = 6.2 kg/mm
300 lb/in = 5.3 kg/mm
250 lb/in = 4.5 kg/mm
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I just looked at them also. They are recommending 23.2kg ( Is this the 1300? ) But that is just with my weight alone (260) Their calculator asks for rider weight only without baggage. When i ride 2 up we are 440# She does not like to go on long trips, so gear weight is next to nothing if she is on. At 440# though I wonder if thats really enough spring and if I went heavier...would it be too stiff when Im alone. Ugh..I have a head ache
I would like to point out that the rear ride height (relative to the front) also affects the steering. On my '01 1100, which I bought from Robbie AG, the counter-steering response sucked at first, especially compared to my '96 NH750. I raised the rear about 1/2", which made the forks more vertical.
The improvement to counter-steering input was immediately and noticeably apparent. Instead of fighting lean, the bike now steers easily and feels very neutral. I weigh around 80 lbs more than he does, which means that I compress the rear more, so the adjustment compensated perfectly.
The improvement to counter-steering input was immediately and noticeably apparent. Instead of fighting lean, the bike now steers easily and feels very neutral. I weigh around 80 lbs more than he does, which means that I compress the rear more, so the adjustment compensated perfectly.
springs can go higher. it all depends on the linkages setups. SAG is key. Reb. and Comp. tune the stroke action.
for reference
I race with a 1500# spring on my 320# Hawk GT. This gives me 4 mm static sag and 20mm loaded.
I
I'm riding one up 99% of the time. Spring is set for the stiffer end of 1 up riding.
PS Buy a Penske spring, nicer people to work with.
I'm riding one up 99% of the time. Spring is set for the stiffer end of 1 up riding.
PS Buy a Penske spring, nicer people to work with.