What did you do with your ST1100/ST1300 today?

Well, it looks like I will be down one bike in the next month or so!

On Friday, my son, Brett was talking about buying a bike now. When discussing it with him, trying to determine what type of bike he was looking for, he said like the STs. Well, it so happens that my 2010 has been sitting at his house when this move started and he's been taking it out here and there. So I asked him if he would be interested in it?

I barely had time to get out a full sentence when he said YES!

So, after putting on 98K miles on it since 2013, it will be Bretts. The only thing is, there is a number of items that will be removed before it is his! ;)

DSC05890-s.jpg

This was last January, when I was putting it back together after the accident!

Oh, and the color for him, will be black. ;) The Blue will be going to the '04, when I get it back on the road! :)
 
Kevcules said:
I don't think any tires likes those freaking tar repair strips. "Tar snakes" are another problem. I was freaked out when I ran over a few of those this summer and the bike moved over a few feet! Wow, not a good feeling on a 700lb bike!

Try some gasoline on a rag for the superglue. Not sure what to else to try. I've used gas often to clean up paint before, not too much rubbing though. Then add some wax to that area again. Good luck....
Click to expand...
If u r removing road tar, wd40 might work. Then rewax
 
Limshady88 said:
Johnny Rocco, what solvent or degreaser did you use on ur wheels? They look BRAND NEW now
Click to expand...

Started off with a thorough soap and (warm) water wash with an old wash mitt, paying attention to nooks and crannies and both sides of the discs and carriers. Then a thorough rinse. I dried them with an air gun. Next, I sprayed any residual spots of grime or brake dust with WD40. Then some work with either a toothbrush or a piece of light grade Scotchbrite (NOT THE RED OR GREEN Scotchbrite!). Some areas may require a bit of soaking and a little more attention. Next, a wipe with a rag lightly sprayed with WD40 over the areas you worked on, then a wipe with a clean, damp cloth.
Finally, a coat of wax on the smooth outer section of the rim (NOT the 'sandcast' inner section and spokes/hub).
This would have been the first time in 15 years the rim had been detailed, but all things considered, it wasn't too bad, the P.O. had kept the bike fairly tidy.
 
paulcb said:
Yeah, those wheels do look good, curious as to your cleaning method. Did you have any stains in the wheel paint, or just surface grime?
Click to expand...
In my case, mostly surface grime, with minor staining. I have done this a few times on my high mileage ST1100 and the key to good results is going easy on the scrubbing and concentrating more on repeated efforts and soaking with something like WD. Light and thorough waxing helps as well, it's amazing how much crud the wax picks up, even on a rim that looks clean.

My reply to Limshady88 here-

Started off with a thorough soap and (warm) water wash with an old wash mitt, paying attention to nooks and crannies and both sides of the discs and carriers. Then a thorough rinse. I dried them with an air gun. Next, I sprayed any residual spots of grime or brake dust with WD40. Then some work with either a toothbrush or a piece of light grade Scotchbrite (NOT THE RED OR GREEN Scotchbrite!). Some areas may require a bit of soaking and a little more attention. Next, a wipe with a rag lightly sprayed with WD40 over the areas you worked on, then a wipe with a clean, damp cloth.
Finally, a coat of wax on the smooth outer section of the rim (NOT the 'sandcast' inner section and spokes/hub).
This would have been the first time in 15 years the rim had been detailed, but all things considered, it wasn't too bad, the P.O. had kept the bike fairly tidy.
 
Checked my valve clearance for THE last time. The bike has 122451km and I adjusted them 2 years ago at ~100000km. They are still in spec with no change. I turn 61 next month and do not see any more long trip in my life because of covid. I used the service manual and mark's on the cams to get TDC. It was much easier than using the peep hole by the radiator. The diagram in the service manual diagram was super easy to use.
 
So today I had to strip out my right front caliper. Having refilled and bled the front brakes system, I decided that I would renew the PTFE tape on the bleed valves for re-filling the rear system. This bike came with PTFE fitted. This is the first time that I have taken the bleed valves out of the caliper on this bike. All was OK, but the front right centre piston bleed valve would not start the thread unless it was at a slight angle. I got a strong light and started inspecting and cleaning the thread with a intederntal brushes, cotton buds and a dental probe. Plenty of strands of PTFE, but also loads curves of metal. Somehow, somewhere along the line this thing has stripped itself. I don't understand how it came out and wouldn't go in again though.

So - I decided that it wasn't easily repairable, short of drilling out and fitting a coil, and I wasn't sure that would work, if the cone was toast as well. I thought I might as well see if it would tighten up and seal at the cone end. Yes it tightened up. No, it didn't seal.

Fortunately some nice chap in Belgium had just one smart looking post 2008 right caliper available. So that is now on its way to the UK, hopefully getting into the country by the skin of its teeth, along with the Christmas Sprouts, before the borders close and the roads to the channel ports and railway tunnel become a 50 mile lorry park. The caliper looks to be in good condition. We shall find out the hard way, I suppose.
 
Last edited:
jfheath said:
So today I had to strip out my right front caliper. Having refilled and bled the front brakes system, I decided that I would renew the PTFE tape on the bleed valves for re-filling the rear system. This bike came with PTFE fitted. This is the first time that I have taken the bleed valves out of the caliper on this bike. All was OK, but the front right centre piston bleed valve would not start the thread unless it was at a slight angle. I got a strong light and started inspecting and cleaning the thread with a intederntal brushes, cotton buds and a dental probe. Plenty of strands of PTFE, but also loads curves of metal. Somehow, somewhere along the line this thing has stripped itself. I don't understand how it came out and wouldn't go in again though.

So - having decided that it wasn't easily repairable, short of drilling out and fitting a coil. I wasn't sure that would work, if the cone was toast as well. I thought I might as well see if it would tighten up and seal at the cone end. Yes it tightened up. No, it didn't seal.

Fortunately some nice chap in Belgium had just one smart looking post 2008 right caliper available. So that is now on its way to the UK, hopefully getting into the country by the skin of its teeth, along with the Christmas Sprouts, before the borders close and the roads to the channel ports and railway tunnel become a 50 mile lorry park. The caliper looks to be in good condition. We shall find out the hard way, I suppose.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing the tape was there because it was damaged and wouldn't seal otherwise.
 
Possible. I put my own tape on my new 2006 model, but my new 2013 (2009) model had it fitted when I got it. Honda do recommend it for using a vacuum pump. There was a lot of it round that thread compared to the others but it doesn't help with the seal no matter how much you use. Too much would exhert pressure on the threads though. Whatever I can't do owt to the bike now- except repair the quartet harness, until it arrives. Order some seals perhaps.
 
Today in southern Ontario, Canada it was sunny and 6 deg C. I took the ST1300 out for an hour and a half ride. Roads were dry. There was some snow in the ditches along the smaller tree lined roads. It was quite pleasant with the Vstream windshield, Oxford heated grips and the signature ST1300 engine heat on my legs!
 
Wanting to drain a tank to put a bike in the MC Spa for maintenance, I did a search.
First post said I had to do this and do that and be careful about such and such while....
Second post said GO RIDE.
Riding a hundred miles of rural roads over 2 and a 1/2 hours in a 38 degree rain was perfect because today I woke up to this
7343AF09-41DD-4A8C-8A15-CA90AD49A236.jpeg
 
You snow riders are tough.
Only time I wanna put up with being cold, is if I'm skiiing. And I don't much like cold, even then.
Are you wearing 'lectrics? I could handle those temps, so long as I have 12v DC heat. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom