Will leaking diaphram(s) cause excessive vacuum to flow from secondary filter hose(s)?

Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Messages
3
Age
60
Location
Pleasant Prairie, Wisconsin
Hi, I'm working on a neighbor's 1994 ST1100 that he had disassembled way back in 2014 because of some coolant leaks from a couple hoses and I basically got the bike still all disassembled so... even though I'm an excellent mechanic (double Master ASE certified and also have been working on motorcycles for 40+ years) it's obviously a challenge to try to figure out how everything goes back together since I didn't take it apart. He fortunately provided me with three service manuals including even the genuine Honda service manual, BUT, some of the systems on this engine aren't thoroughly explained in the manuals. I replaced all the coolant hoses with genuine Honda ones and also many other parts that were bad due to it having sat for over 10 years with the original gas in it (had to find a good used fuel tank and pump assembly due to the tank being so bad inside with varnish and also rust from condensation above the fuel level) and I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs BUT I didn't pull off the CV covers to inspect the diaphragms because I decided it probably would be safer to not disturb them at all due to their age.... granted now in hindsight I should have disassembled and inspected and cleaned them too. Anyways, I fired it up for the first time last night (also new carb to intake boots) and it took a little bit to get it fired up but it actually ran pretty good after a minute or two. My issue is that the idle seems lean and is a little high and I noticed that both of the two big hoses that go to the secondary filter assembly in front are flowing a LOT of air (vacuum) into the carbs. After doing a few hours of research online and especially through this forum, I have come to the conclusion that there's probable a couple torn or leaking slide valve diaphragms? I'm thinking that the vacuum that's generated to lift the slides is getting through some (or all?) the diaphragms and that's causing the lean condition? When I plug off both of those hoses it idles excellent and takes throttle relatively well but I'm sure that none of the slides aren't opening or very little. The bike is still quite a bit apart so I haven't actually tried riding it but I know that's not even really needed at this point since I can tell there's a carb related issue. My question is, am I right in thinking that if it has a leaking diaphragm(s?) that I will see excessive vacuum flowing through the secondary filter hoses? I'm going to pull the carbs back off again this afternoon and pull the carbs all apart again and this time I'll pull apart the CV slides and diaphragms too. At this point I'm about 90% convinced I'll probably see it needs new diaphragms unfortunately... ($$) but I thought I'd post this on here to see what you all think regarding the vacuum flow through the secondary filter hoses.

Also, on a side note, I noticed that the cooling fan never kicked on and I bypassed the cooling fan temp switch and it turned on and runs perfectly... so it also needs a new cooling fan temp switch. Does anyone know of any "cross reference" type of temp switch I might be able to use rather than spending the $80+ that Partzilla etc. want for the genuine Honda one? I'm sure it's a pretty generic type of switch (probably only like $14) that might not be hard to match up something locally and Oreiley's or Napa or whatever but I figured I'd ask on here since maybe someone has a cheaper alternative I can get to help save him some money since the genuine Honda CV diaphragms are definitely not cheap! Maybe someone on here knows where I can get new diaphragms cheaper than like $124 each through Partszilla ect?
 
There should be little to no air sucking in through the small rectangular secondary filter box. That intake just allows air inand out to equalize with the engine vacuum on the opposite side of the diaphragm. If it is, then yes one or more diaphragms are torn/ripped.
 
Ok, that's what I thought, from what I can tell it's mainly just a venting system for air underneath the diaphragms as they move up and down... I appreciate you replying and confirming what I suspected. I'm surprised with all the people posting about whether their diaphragms might be leaking or not.. nobody has mentioned that the sub filter vent hoses shouldn't be flowing vacuum..I think that's a good way to diagnose a bad diaphragm or diaphragms
 
Also, on a side note, I noticed that the cooling fan never kicked on and I bypassed the cooling fan temp switch and it turned on and runs perfectly... so it also needs a new cooling fan temp switch.
not necessarily. As you probably know, the switch has a single terminal and uses the radiator as ground. What isn't so obvious is the radiator isn't grounded to the frame via the mounting bolts, its grounded via a green wire in a 2-pin connector in the general vicinity of the radiator fan. If that green wire connection to the radiator is corroded, or the connector is corroded, then the ground is compromised and the switch can't complete the circuit. Make sure the green wire ground connection is clean before going any further, and check the continuity between the radiator and the negative battery terminal to verify the ground is in good working condition.
 
not necessarily. As you probably know, the switch has a single terminal and uses the radiator as ground. What isn't so obvious is the radiator isn't grounded to the frame via the mounting bolts, its grounded via a green wire in a 2-pin connector in the general vicinity of the radiator fan. If that green wire connection to the radiator is corroded, or the connector is corroded, then the ground is compromised and the switch can't complete the circuit. Make sure the green wire ground connection is clean before going any further, and check the continuity between the radiator and the negative battery terminal to verify the ground is in good working condition.
Thanks! I just assumed that the radiator would be grounded without the use of any wires so... good point! I'll check that tomorrow.. thanks!
 
These bikes do run lean at idle. Some put in larger jets but not necessary. Mixutre screws are difficult to get to, 2-2 1/2 turns out works. The carbs have to be syncronized. Idle rpm hot = 1,000 -1,100 rpm.
 
Hi, I'm working on a neighbor's 1994 ST1100 that he had disassembled way back in 2014 because of some coolant leaks from a couple hoses and I basically got the bike still all disassembled so... even though I'm an excellent mechanic (double Master ASE certified and also have been working on motorcycles for 40+ years) it's obviously a challenge to try to figure out how everything goes back together since I didn't take it apart. He fortunately provided me with three service manuals including even the genuine Honda service manual, BUT, some of the systems on this engine aren't thoroughly explained in the manuals. I replaced all the coolant hoses with genuine Honda ones and also many other parts that were bad due to it having sat for over 10 years with the original gas in it (had to find a good used fuel tank and pump assembly due to the tank being so bad inside with varnish and also rust from condensation above the fuel level) and I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs BUT I didn't pull off the CV covers to inspect the diaphragms because I decided it probably would be safer to not disturb them at all due to their age.... granted now in hindsight I should have disassembled and inspected and cleaned them too. Anyways, I fired it up for the first time last night (also new carb to intake boots) and it took a little bit to get it fired up but it actually ran pretty good after a minute or two. My issue is that the idle seems lean and is a little high and I noticed that both of the two big hoses that go to the secondary filter assembly in front are flowing a LOT of air (vacuum) into the carbs. After doing a few hours of research online and especially through this forum, I have come to the conclusion that there's probable a couple torn or leaking slide valve diaphragms? I'm thinking that the vacuum that's generated to lift the slides is getting through some (or all?) the diaphragms and that's causing the lean condition? When I plug off both of those hoses it idles excellent and takes throttle relatively well but I'm sure that none of the slides aren't opening or very little. The bike is still quite a bit apart so I haven't actually tried riding it but I know that's not even really needed at this point since I can tell there's a carb related issue. My question is, am I right in thinking that if it has a leaking diaphragm(s?) that I will see excessive vacuum flowing through the secondary filter hoses? I'm going to pull the carbs back off again this afternoon and pull the carbs all apart again and this time I'll pull apart the CV slides and diaphragms too. At this point I'm about 90% convinced I'll probably see it needs new diaphragms unfortunately... ($$) but I thought I'd post this on here to see what you all think regarding the vacuum flow through the secondary filter hoses.

Also, on a side note, I noticed that the cooling fan never kicked on and I bypassed the cooling fan temp switch and it turned on and runs perfectly... so it also needs a new cooling fan temp switch. Does anyone know of any "cross reference" type of temp switch I might be able to use rather than spending the $80+ that Partzilla etc. want for the genuine Honda one? I'm sure it's a pretty generic type of switch (probably only like $14) that might not be hard to match up something locally and Oreiley's or Napa or whatever but I figured I'd ask on here since maybe someone has a cheaper alternative I can get to help save him some money since the genuine Honda CV diaphragms are definitely not cheap! Maybe someone on here knows where I can get new diaphragms cheaper than like $124 each through Partszilla ect?
Were you able to find diaphragms cheaper than $124/ea? I'm in the same boat with all 4 being cracked.
I did check Ron Ayers who is typically cheaper than the rest, but still $133/ea.
 
Romax cycles sells replacement diaphragms. Once purchased, you can send in your slides and have them replaced for the cost of shipping!!
 
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