Water Cover O-Rings/seals

Perhaps a moot point, but how was the O ring once you got it apart? I don’t recall anyone finding that particular O ring in bad shape.
 
Sunday Rider said:
Perhaps a moot point, but how was the O ring once you got it apart? I don’t recall anyone finding that particular O ring in bad shape.
Click to expand...
Old and crusty - the bike is 97 with 140,000+ miles on her.
My goal is to replace all the o-rings, timing belt (though it doesn't need it), water necks, pulleys and water pump while I'm this deep into her.
Then I should be good for another 100,000 miles which will put the bike at about 1/4 million miles total.
One or both of us will probably be turned into dust before that happens since I spread the miles out between the four of them ... ;)
 
The ST1100s are getting old with time and mileage (like their owners :rofl1:) so I guess that O ring like the others now.
Sounds like you are good to go for a long time with the fleet.
 
Sunday Rider said:
The ST1100s are getting old with time and mileage (like their owners :rofl1:) so I guess that O ring like the others now.
Sounds like you are good to go for a long time with the fleet.
Click to expand...
Well, RedBird is coming up on her 200,000 mile mark (184,000+ miles now) so I will do the same to her.
Then BlueBelle is sitting at 80,000+ miles so she will be next.
SweetTreat is good for a while since the replacement engine only had 23,000 miles on it. ;)
It's almost as easy/quicker to do an engine replacement as it is doing all of this ... :biggrin:
 
Uncle Phil said:
Well, RedBird is coming up on her 200,000 mile mark (184,000+ miles now) so I will do the same to her.
Then BlueBelle is sitting at 80,000+ miles so she will be next.
SweetTreat is good for a while since the replacement engine only had 23,000 miles on it. ;)
It's almost as easy/quicker to do an engine replacement as it is doing all of this ... :biggrin:
Click to expand...
I gotta come down and see you do one of those enginectomies. It would be so educational! Glad you are keeping those wonderful machines in good order.
 
Hello!

Got after all the O rings in the cooling circuit, including the two in the water cover. Compared to the elbows, these were still in the direction of rubber. Was able to just wiggle it off the pipe, and back on--though it seems like that little rubber bushing is asked to do quite a lot.

Question is--what's the correct torque on the cover bolts? Is it 38 ft lbs like all the other generic crankcase 10mm, or something else?

EDIT--Also--is there enough water pressure cranking the starter to check for leaks? This is such a fun project I'd hate to get everything put back together just to find it's still puking coolant in some hidden place.

Thanks in advance,
Christopher

'91 ST1100
 
cc2larke said:
what's the correct torque on the cover bolts? Is it 38 ft lbs like all the other generic crankcase 10mm, or something else?
Click to expand...
On an M6 flange bolt (10mm head) I would go with 12Nm/9ft-lb... (see 1-15 in the OEM w/shop manual...)

Will attack the water pipe issue next w/e on my '94 ST1100, as I found a tiny seepage there...
 
ST1100Y said:
On an M6 flange bolt (10mm head) I would go with 12Nm/9ft-lb... (see 1-15 in the OEM w/shop manual...)

Will attack the water pipe issue next w/e on my '94 ST1100, as I found a tiny seepage there...
Click to expand...
Thank you for correcting me! 38ft-lbs seemed like way too much.
 
cc2larke said:
Hello!

Got after all the O rings in the cooling circuit, including the two in the water cover. Compared to the elbows, these were still in the direction of rubber. Was able to just wiggle it off the pipe, and back on--though it seems like that little rubber bushing is asked to do quite a lot.

Question is--what's the correct torque on the cover bolts? Is it 38 ft lbs like all the other generic crankcase 10mm, or something else?

EDIT--Also--is there enough water pressure cranking the starter to check for leaks? This is such a fun project I'd hate to get everything put back together just to find it's still puking coolant in some hidden place.

Thanks in advance,
Christopher

'91 ST1100
Click to expand...
Have a look at the link below. I made a setup like that to test mine when I changed out the hoses and coolant parts

Cooling System Pressure Test ( ST1100 ) *

Cooling System Pressure Test ( ST1100 ) *
www.st-riders.net
 
Sunday Rider said:
Have a look at the link below. I made a setup like that to test mine when I changed out the hoses and coolant parts

Cooling System Pressure Test ( ST1100 ) *

Cooling System Pressure Test ( ST1100 ) *
www.st-riders.net
Click to expand...
Neat idea!

Also, the explanation of the radiator cap. In addition to a bunch of dried coolant on top of the crankcase, I had a hole in the reservoir hose right at the nipple (which was closed as well with dried coolant). I think it's been awhile since anything went through that hose.

That said, it's amazing how good a job the cooling system does given how long this must have been going on. Before I tore it all down, I removed the bodywork and refilled the radiator and then got the bike up to temp, and I couldn't get it past half way on the temp gauge. It was heartening to know it wasn't the water pump, and just a lack of coolant, that was the culprit, as replacing the water pump looks like the best way to spend a lazy afternoon...
 
cc2larke said:
Thank you for correcting me! 38ft-lbs seemed like way too much.
Click to expand...
yikes, that would have been a disaster. I couldn't figure out what fastener was in the area you were working on that would take that amount of torque.

FWIW, the torque values specified in the manual are based on the diameter of the bolt at the threads, not the size of the wrench used on the hex head. Also, if you look through the torque table you'll notice quite a range of torque values for the same diameter bolts, which is due to different hardness grades for the fasteners. So when in doubt use the generic values given at the top of the table unless the specific bolt you're tightening is listed individually in the torque table.
 
When I pressure tested my system many years ago I got a free loan of the tester from Autozone. Take your cap as you’ll need an adapter to fit the ST’s filler opening. Pump it up to 20 lbs and look for leaks.

John
 
Ok, so this keeps taking more time. The bypass tube that goes from the water pipe to the bottom of the thermostat is so hard it leaks now, and isn't flexible enough to cut it a little lower and have it fit, so I'm getting some more hoses. Thought while I had it apart I'd replace the four braided sections on the air suction valves, since they seem a little looser now that I've had them off, but they don't seem to be available anymore. Any suggestions on replacement?
 
cc2larke said:
The bypass tube that goes from the water pipe to the bottom of the thermostat is so hard it leaks now, and isn't flexible enough to cut...
Click to expand...
Yep, likely overlooked that one is...
I replace those precautionary like every two years/at any sign of hardening, and recently upgraded to braided silicone hoses on the '00 ST...
 
ST1100Y said:
Yep, likely overlooked that one is...
I replace those precautionary like every two years/at any sign of hardening, and recently upgraded to braided silicone hoses on the '00 ST...
Click to expand...
Do you have a source/part numbers? I've updated a number of pieces to newer tech, and would be happy to fix these areas (though really, a service every 30 years isn't too much of a pain!). As above, I can't find anything to replace these air suction hoses, though maybe better clamps will work. Anyone had luck shaping hoses, or had silicone not kink on you to make those bends?
 
Not O rings, but related to this project--the rubber heat shield is pretty toasted too. Anyone cut a black silicone mat to shape? Perhaps more resilient than rubber, and generally heat resistant. The original piece is also unavailable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom