1300 bulbs - any direct fit options?

MidLife said:
Overheating is the leading cause of failure of the LED electronics (and others, like our infamous ECU....) but efficient cooling costs more to manufacture.......
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Most definitely true, heat is the enemy of all electronics. Many LED bulb designs have all of the electronics housed in the bulb assembly. Whether they are cooled with a fan or not has an impact on the temperature of the electronics I would think. This is not the case with the bulb type being discussed based on the link that was provided. This bulb design is the type that has a remotely mounted box that houses the electronics outside of the bulb assembly. Having a fan in the bulb assembly does not provide any cooling to the the electronics in this box.

I took the below photo from that same link. The remote electronics box that you see in the below photo is what I was referring to. All of the failures that I have seen with this LED bulb design have been in this box, not with the LED itself.

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MidLife said:
Interested to know how they work for you.

Having the fan on the back side may provide better cooling than if inside the enclosed Headlight Assembly.
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In my limited experience you won't have to worry about short-lived LEDs. When using PIAAs, SilverStars and Ultra halogens I was burning out bulbs in a year or less but the internal fan LEDs I started using 5-6 years ago are still in service and up to 72,000 miles later. If you don't ride much then it doesn't matter.
 
The Cyclops bulbs (supposedly a top brand) I tried seemed to fail at the LED emitter itself. The normally yellow color slowly changed to brown as the light output degraded. This happened to both bulbs, one at ~12,000 miles and the other close behind at 14,000 miles. This was about a year’s mileage for me at the time.
 
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