1300 bulbs - any direct fit options?

MidLife said:
Overheating is the leading cause of failure of the LED electronics (and others, like our infamous ECU....) but efficient cooling costs more to manufacture.......
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Most definitely true, heat is the enemy of all electronics. Many LED bulb designs have all of the electronics housed in the bulb assembly. Whether they are cooled with a fan or not has an impact on the temperature of the electronics I would think. This is not the case with the bulb type being discussed based on the link that was provided. This bulb design is the type that has a remotely mounted box that houses the electronics outside of the bulb assembly. Having a fan in the bulb assembly does not provide any cooling to the the electronics in this box.

I took the below photo from that same link. The remote electronics box that you see in the below photo is what I was referring to. All of the failures that I have seen with this LED bulb design have been in this box, not with the LED itself.

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MidLife said:
Interested to know how they work for you.

Having the fan on the back side may provide better cooling than if inside the enclosed Headlight Assembly.
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In my limited experience you won't have to worry about short-lived LEDs. When using PIAAs, SilverStars and Ultra halogens I was burning out bulbs in a year or less but the internal fan LEDs I started using 5-6 years ago are still in service and up to 72,000 miles later. If you don't ride much then it doesn't matter.
 
The Cyclops bulbs (supposedly a top brand) I tried seemed to fail at the LED emitter itself. The normally yellow color slowly changed to brown as the light output degraded. This happened to both bulbs, one at ~12,000 miles and the other close behind at 14,000 miles. This was about a year’s mileage for me at the time.
 
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So I got the bulbs, and one is installed. They are a 2 piece design, the mounting plate and bulb fit together and the bulb can rotate. There is an o ring to create friction so it won't turn on its own.

I'm not a huge fan of that design, but we'll see how it lasts. I feel like that o ring will not offer the same resistance in 5 years but we'll see. It also makes it a huge pain to install, the boot is flush with the end of the light so it's very difficult to get your fingers around the bulb to rotate it to the correct position.

The light output is good, though. I'll wait until dark and when I get the other side done for final judgment but so far so good.
 
Joeywhat said:
So I got the bulbs, and one is installed. They are a 2 piece design, the mounting plate and bulb fit together and the bulb can rotate. There is an o ring to create friction so it won't turn on its own.

I'm not a huge fan of that design, but we'll see how it lasts. I feel like that o ring will not offer the same resistance in 5 years but we'll see. It also makes it a huge pain to install, the boot is flush with the end of the light so it's very difficult to get your fingers around the bulb to rotate it to the correct position.

The light output is good, though. I'll wait until dark and when I get the other side done for final judgment but so far so good.
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In order to get the beam cut-off horizontal across both lamps the “blade” should be rotated about 5 degrees clockwise looking into the reflector. 2 piece bulbs should line up like this one in the NC700X.
 

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dduelin said:
In order to get the beam cut-off horizontal across both lamps the “blade” should be rotated about 5 degrees clockwise looking into the reflector. 2 piece bulbs should line up like this one in the NC700X.
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Good to know, I'm assuming this gives the pattern a little higher on the right side versus being completely flat?
 
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