Coolant leaks

This seems to be in my future as well. After setting through the deep freeze we had over Christmas and then the late Indian summer we're now experiencing I found a small amount of coolant under my bike when I puller it out to work on the brakes the other day. While talking with Larry we discovered there was about a 2° difference between Tucson and Emlenton, PA.

Often I hear you guys mention the plastic "tee" cracking. The "tee" seems to be dry. I did notice dampness at the square hole so I've probably got some hoses that should be tightened. It sounds like a few o-rings to change as well. I've got all of the fairings off the right side. I'm guessing that I'll need to pull them from the left side as well in order to pull the radiator. I'm thinking as a preventive maintenance I wouldn't mind replacing the "tee" and maybe some of the hoses. Is there a benefit to the constant pressure type clamps? Or just snug up the screw type?
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Igofar said:
Be careful what you wish for.
Your liable to find out just how much your bike can be improved upon.
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I'd gladly ride over, but it's a bit over 2000 miles and 31-32 hours each way. :( I'm sure we would have a good time our hands dirty together.
 
When I did a water pump on my 03 I drilled a inspection hole in the water pump cover so I could look in there and see if it’s the weep hole or the water pump is leaking and I found a rubber plug for the inspection hole, you need a mirror to check it but it’s better than taking the cover off to see what’s leaking.
 
Raia said:
When I did a water pump on my 03 I drilled a inspection hole in the water pump cover so I could look in there and see if it’s the weep hole or the water pump is leaking and I found a rubber plug for the inspection hole, you need a mirror to check it but it’s better than taking the cover off to see what’s leaking.
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Did you take any pictures?
 
I put on a topic about a Coolant Leak and the message came back--"This topic was removed as it was in the wrong section."But there was no indication what was the right section. Where does this topic show what section it is in ? Should it be put in General section or Main section ?
While I am here I can suggest the leaks on thin overflow tubes is partly caused by the tube getting harder from the temperature , then only being held on with silly thin spring clips ,but mainly due to alloy corrosion pushing out against the tube and bursting it .
 
Yohan said:
I put on a topic about a Coolant Leak and the message came back--"This topic was removed as it was in the wrong section."But there was no indication what was the right section. Where does this topic show what section it is in ? Should it be put in General section or Main section ?
While I am here I can suggest the leaks on thin overflow tubes is partly caused by the tube getting harder from the temperature , then only being held on with silly thin spring clips ,but mainly due to alloy corrosion pushing out against the tube and bursting it .
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You put it in the general section... should go into st1300 leaks sub forum.
 
dduelin said:
Coolant leaks look worse than they are on these bikes but it doesn't take much to fix the simple problem of weeping hose connections that drain down the front of the engine and exit the square drain hole. You are already familiar with removing the fairing and that is a good amount of the time required. With the fairing off and the radiator removed it's simple to access the radiator hoses and the other cooling system hose connections at the thermostat and cylinder heads. With a long screw driver and a 6 mm socket on a couple of extensions you snug up the hose clamps. Simply snug, not over tighten. While it is accessible it's good to go ahead and replace the O-ring sealing the thermostat housing. The part number for the O-ring is 91361-MCS-A10. I have a pdf tutorial that shows how to remove the radiator to access the thermostat housing. Replacing the thermostat may not be called for if the bike warms up normally and shows three bars on the coolant gauge while being ridden but the steps to drain the coolant and remove the radiator are necessary to access the V from the front. If you want a copy of the tutorial PM me your email address.
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I am new to the forum. Great info! I thinl i need to access the V from the front to remedy a persistent leak, I already changed the water pump gasket, new bottom hose and new hose clamps. Time to pull the plastics off again, pull the Rad and check the hose clamps in the V.

Gorddm
 
dduelin said:
Coolant leaks look worse than they are on these bikes but it doesn't take much to fix the simple problem of weeping hose connections that drain down the front of the engine and exit the square drain hole. You are already familiar with removing the fairing and that is a good amount of the time required. With the fairing off and the radiator removed it's simple to access the radiator hoses and the other cooling system hose connections at the thermostat and cylinder heads. With a long screw driver and a 6 mm socket on a couple of extensions you snug up the hose clamps. Simply snug, not over tighten. While it is accessible it's good to go ahead and replace the O-ring sealing the thermostat housing. The part number for the O-ring is 91361-MCS-A10. I have a pdf tutorial that shows how to remove the radiator to access the thermostat housing. Replacing the thermostat may not be called for if the bike warms up normally and shows three bars on the coolant gauge while being ridden but the steps to drain the coolant and remove the radiator are necessary to access the V from the front. If you want a copy of the tutorial PM me your email address.
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I would really appreciate the PDF on removing the rad to access the thermostat from the front.
I have the water pump housing off now, but it looks like my leak was coming from the V so I need to check the thermostat and hoses up there.
Sent you a PM to request.
 
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drmc said:
I would really appreciate the PDF on removing the rad to access the thermostat from the front.
I have the water pump housing off now, but it looks like my leak was coming from the V so I need to check the thermostat and hoses up there.
Sent you a PM to request.
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Sent. Good wishes to you.
 
dduelin said:
Sent. Good wishes to you.
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Got them. Thanks, very helpful. One loose clamp in the V with some evidence that there was a drip there.
I would add one detail for anyone doing this (at least on my 2009).
The 2 small electrical connectors on the sides of the rad are tricky to disconnect. Mine did not require a flat blade screwdriver to "push in the locking tab" to disconnect as described. It's actually the opposite.
You have to insert a fine screwdriver or other tool into the connector and push / pry outwards to release the locking tab. You do not push in from outside the connector. You pry outwards from inside the connector and pull the connector apart / out.
 
Guess I'll follow along for awhile. Been having a cold morning piddle (more like one or two drips) but it's been that way for years and seems to go away after a few rides. Then winter storage comes and first Spring startup the process repeats. It's never enough to get me motivated, although I did purchase a water pump seal kit several years ago. :D It's a 2007 so sooner or later I really need to deal with it.
 
@drmc @STPaulK ,

Here are links to a couple of really good articles that may help with your respective diagnoses. Leaks around the T-STat are a known issue, which can be resolved relatively easily. However, the problem on my '05 was the joints that are affixed above the No. 1 and No. 4 cylinder heads. The O-ring that mates between the joint and the head had disintegrated. Larry (i.e., @Igofar ) swears that the O-rings can be replaced without removing the throttle body, but I couldn't. YMMV.

Hopefully, your respective problems are the usual leaks around the T-STat. Wishing you both all the best!

Solving Coolant Leaks for Good
Water Pump Weep Holes

Chris
 
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